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Tarifa, Spain: The Windy Haven Across the Water from Tangier

11/5/2025

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Picture of Tarifa, Spain beach and mountains, Spain's southernmost point, taken by author and vlogger Jonathan KuiperSpain's southernmost point - Tarifa
I told myself that my current project — the follow-up to Rusty Star — would be different. Unlike previous novels, I vowed not to grind away just because I had time or to fill my weekends with 5000-word goals, simply to get the project done faster. Honestly, that’s the most challenging part after getting into the characters, their motivations, and their stories. Often, it feels like I’m simply downloading dialogue and information, one big conduit at work. To that end, I have to watch myself so that I don’t overdo things and stretch myself thin.

Currently, on 85000 words, there isn’t that much left for the story. I think it’s at least ten thousand more, maybe fifteen, but until Russell tells me everything is tied up in a bow, it could be a slow crawl to the end. Knowing this, I want to embrace these final days and weeks of the process. Am I drained? Absolutely, but not because of the writing, but from the emotional exchange that happens with certain scenes and situations characters find themselves in.
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A Writer’s Retreat Across the Water: Why Tarifa Was the Reset I Needed


​Knowing that the end of the book offers little to no reprieve, with continuous emotional hits on Russell, I took a retreat this past weekend to Tarifa, Spain. There were two vlogs I released in the spring on this little fishing haven and Kite Surfing retreat at Spain’s southernmost point that I won’t repeat, but will simply share below if you're interested in seeing more.

Tarifa vs. Tangier: Two Shores, Two Very Different Energies


Picture of Tarifa, Spain beach, Spain's southernmost point, taken by author and vlogger Jonathan KuiperTarifa, Spain - A Kite Surfing Paradise
Even though Tarifa is directly across the water —Tangier’s water twin, if you will — they couldn’t be more different. Tarifa is a small village, not even a city in my book, and a transfer point where people ferry across for the price of a Ryanair plane ticket, then take the shuttle bus onwards to Algeciras, and then to Marbella, Malaga, or Seville. Anyway, it’s an overnight stay at best, a pub crawl for the hardy, and for this guy, an energetic shift away from the heaviness that is Tangier. 

Don’t get me wrong, I’m sure Tangier’s energy is a blessing to many, but in my case, from the get-go, the area grinds at me more than any other place I have lived. It’s an uphill struggle daily, and like Sisyphus, I climb the mountain and once at the top, I can rest, until the next day, when everything repeats. But as the boulder rolls down the hill, my reprieve is writing, unless of course, I get out of Dodge for a quick recharge.

This past weekend, Tarifa was the place to be. It’s just far enough away that the current and the water flow behave differently. Where you get monster waves and a consistent wind that Wind and Kite Surfers adore, and a picturesque beach that goes on for miles, Tangier has some sand that serves as a rest stop. The water haphazardly comes in for a mediocre hive five and a promise that it might be fun, someday. While there might be a one hump camel or two roaming the sand for a quick buck and Arabian horses for the same, on Tarifa’s beaches, the dogs that visit are on vacation with their owners, basking in the sun no less, and topless nudity appears to be unisex in nature. More importantly, for this guy, the sand and the water, with the wind on my face, and the ability to grab an adult beverage if the need comes, is just what I need to recenter and find the energy to write again, let alone return to a classroom full of energetic wilderbeasts . . . I mean, wonderful children. 

Sometimes, I get too wordy. Of course, I meant wonderful, loving, polite children. That’s how it’s been at every location I have taught the last twenty-plus years. Cherubim and angels, gumdrops, and fairies, right? 

Tarifa, though, is a wonderful place to visit. It’s easy enough to see everything in the old town within twenty minutes. If you want to do the tapa thing, go for it — there are ample food choices to keep your interest, or, in my case, a Lidl with this delicious pecking snack of salted pork and fresh bread that cries out for my attention. 

On my last trip, I pretended to be a grand hiker, eager to see if I could meander my way onto parts of the El Camino de Santiego. Still, alas, I ended up in a cow pasture, staring down the locals, and wondering why an hour-long hike along the cliffs, looking out onto the ocean, was therapy for my soul. 
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Finding Balance Between Writing, Travel, and the Need to Breathe


It doesn’t matter how long I stay in Tarifa, simply breathing the fresh air, smelling the salt of the Atlantic Ocean current, and taking a moment to sit and rest is honestly the best recipe for any ailment I’m suffering from. This weekend was a welcome reprieve, and I imagine there will be a few more trips in the months to come. 

If you ever find yourself eager to get to Morocco, veer off and check out this fishing spot; you might find a place you didn’t realize you needed. Or when you leave Morocco, take the ferry across and instead of pushing onwards to some ridiculous city that lacks charm and spirit, spend a few hours in Tarifa to see how the locals live and what honest Spanish living is all about. 
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Tarifa - Travel Vlogs from April 2025

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When Ryanair’s On Time, You Know You’re in Trouble

10/22/2025

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The Storm That Wouldn’t Quit ​


Storm Amy in Morecambe Bay, storm clouds, rain, and low tideStorm Amy (what was left of Hurricane Humberto) was ready to play
Influencers never seem to show both sides of the traveling coin. Let me be the first to share that if you ever decide to book a flight and travel to some faraway land, there’s always the potential for disruption. Take this past weekend as an example for this seasoned traveler ― Storm Amy, formerly Hurricane Hermbato, decided to slap the British Isles with a taste of unsightly and less-than-travel-friendly weather. 

Thankfully, I wasn’t heading to some big city that depended on the perfect filming environment. For that matter, I simply wanted to get to my Irish seaside retreat of Morecambe to watch the tidal change and feel the cooler English air. Even with my travel ambitions known, it was still a chore to navigate. 

Before I even left Morocco, the trains were already disrupted for my return on Monday. Rumor has it that, in addition to Amy’s wrath, it was already decided that this would be the maintenance weekend for the Northern Railway, which means headaches to begin with, and for those smaller venues, outright cancellations. Familiar with the routes and NW England, the potential disruptions meant little to me, except for how I would adapt and modify the path to reach this holiday hamlet. 

Now, before you go nuts and ask why I would choose NW England, the Lancaster area of all spots to visit, restrain yourself because this is the real U.K. We aren’t in London, where it’s more of a glorified United Nations of visitors with exorbitant prices and a lack of English charm that does little to nullify the hole in your wallet. 

No, in Lancashire, it’s comfortable, honest, and authentic. There’s history everywhere you go. You can see it on your walks, with every building, corner, and even the trees. The entire area sings of days gone by, and the people you meet are the salt of the Earth and beyond pleasant. 

Knowing this, I was prepared for the potential disruptions, whether it was the flight in or the messy Saturday when Amy would be at full force. Thankfully, the Ryanair flight was, surprise, surprise, on time. According to the pilots, they were the only flight to depart Manchester on time that day and, in this case, arrived back in England with a few minutes to spare. 

Frankly, I should have taken this as a sign of what was to come. If Ryanair is on time, it means the rest of the trip is going to be an adventure. That’s just how the traveling fairy manages these experiences. With a sound sleep at the Ibis, with no noise whatsoever, I slept like a champ, renewed and ready for the coming day. 

Everything seemed to be in order. The train for Lancaster was scheduled for 10:27, and there we were waiting on platform 3A, although I admit I was looking for 9 ¾. By the time I did a walk-around, looking for Harry and the rest of the clan, what do you know but on the screen, the train had disappeared completely, replaced by a different, later, 11:00 route. 

That’s a bit awkward, and there was no notice. I checked my Trainline app and saw the route had been canceled. No worries, right? We would simply take the next train in and continue on our merry way. 

If only it were that bloody easy. The masses of people whose trains had been canceled decided to join the trip, and before we knew it, the 11:00 became the all-comers ride into Manchester Piccadilly. Many of us were trying to head north, but alas, so were the next wave of passengers rushing to get on the train.

Not even one step in, and every seat was taken, the carriage was standing room only, and bags blocked the aisle. I felt blessed to have a seat and secretly smiled, knowing Lancaster was only a few stops away. Wouldn’t you know it, the Piccadilly stop was fifteen minutes long because they continued to fight to get on the train, and figure out where to put their baggage in the process. The number of times we were all asked to back away from the doors was comical, especially since no conductors were inside to manage the chaos. 

Still, I sat comfortably, believing everything would be all right. The train pulled away from Piccadilly, and the screen updated, canceling the entire route past Preston. Not only were they canceling the trip, but those sorry schmucks who just wanted a ride to Manchester Oxbow were now forced to stay on the train to Bolton because we were overpacked with passengers. 

I agreed to skip the next stop en route to Bolton, as it is usually a madhouse, and I didn’t like the idea of stopping again to see how people would disembark and potentially allowing one or two the opportunity to join in the fun. Others lamented the ongoing changes, ignoring the fact that the rain continued to fall, the wind battered the area, and anyone familiar with Scotland’s geography would know that the second part of the route was probably underwater. 

A couple behind us were trying to figure out how to get to Blackpool. They started in Liverpool, were redirected to Manchester, and now any train to Blackpool via this direction has been canceled due to Amy’s visit. Why they hadn’t considered the bus back at Liverpool Lime Street Station remains a mystery to me, but maybe they didn’t know any better. Sheesh, I would have grabbed a train to Southport and figured it out from there.  

One family was trying to get to Scotland with five bags in tow and was busy using the train app to screen potential routes once we arrived in Preston. That’s when it hit me that all of us, sorry travelers, were going to Preston and would be fighting the proverbial good fight to get on the next train northbound.


Finding Calm in Morecambe


Tea Time in Morecambe at the Broadwater Guest HouseA well deserved tea after a long journey to Morecambe
I, for one, was not too excited about this opportunity. There would be more waiting, more pushing, and for what reason? Knowing that the next train was an hour out, or the potential of a way out, I did what was easiest. Uber was my path of least resistance, and the best $45 spent the entire trip. 

Not only did I get a roadside view of the countryside, but there were no other people to contend with, no stupid noises to hear, and the thirty-minute drive was relaxing. I even got to see the iconic Pennine Tower. I wish it were before 1989, when that futuristic tower and restaurant were still open. Still, it was a glorious sight to see on the M6, just as we were preparing for the final miles into historic and bucolic Lancaster.
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Lancaster was ready for our arrival, with a light shower serving as a proper greeting, only to shift to a full-on downpour. Note to self: packing a poncho instead of an umbrella was a bad idea, especially after I poked several holes in my Moroccan gem of a product. Thankfully, Primark and Poundland were open for business, although again I shunned a new umbrella, figuring the worst had passed. 

A quaint and delicious bread bowl venison stew at Zizzi warmed me right up, and before I knew it, I was back on the way to the train station for the final trip to Morecambe. True to form, that train was canceled with the next one, forty minutes out. I didn’t feel like waiting any longer, so I used the reliable Uber app to secure a ride to my final destination. 

Did the rain let up over the remainder of the day? Not so much, but it didn’t matter. By the time I was greeted by the wonderful host of Broadwater Guest House, I knew I had come to the right place to settle my nerves and get the reprieve I desperately needed. 

Thanks to Amy, my room was upgraded due to cancellations, and I was offered an Irish Sea view and the most comfortable chair to write from. My twin brother Stephen, who passed twenty years ago, must have been working his magic. The room number was 7, his lucky number, and the seagull that kept flying over towards the window was none other than Steve, a local friend who loved his daily breakfast morsels. 

Before I knew it, I had a fleece wrapped around my legs, the howling wind and rain pounding on the glass, while I enjoyed a pot of tea and a Danish to boot. There would be no further adventures for me on this trip; instead, I would have the time and space to recharge and renew along a coastline that many tourists will never see or learn to appreciate. 

While the trip involved adjustments and going with the flow, it was all time well spent and a story I can add to the books. Influencers can take their posed shots and compile their top ten lists, but at the end of the day, they are missing out on sharing stories that truly matter — the grit and the authentic experiences that define who you really are.

Cat mural in Morecambe
Delightful, guest lounge in Morecambe
A reprieve from Storm Amy - sunset in Morecambe Bay
Full English Breakfast in Morecambe
Irish Sea, tide is going out in Morecambe

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Zalipie – Inside Poland’s Painted Village (Forever Poland Excerpt, Part II)

10/12/2025

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In the spirit of my Poland travels, I've been working on a memoir that encompasses all of my trips while living in Poland. The working title of the book is Forever Poland. Right now, I'm about 50,000 words in. With the follow-up to Rusty Star ongoing, the second part of Forever Poland has to wait til January for the proper time to revisit the book and finish the remaining chapters.
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I wanted to share more of the writing process, so here's part two of my trip to Zalipie, which I also documented in a YouTube video blog on Travel with Mr. Jon. I'll include that at the end for your viewing pleasure. In the meantime, grab some coffee or tea and indulge in this first draft of my road trip to Poland's happiest and prettiest Village.

The Final Drive to Poland's Happiest Village


Rain seemed to follow me everywhere in Poland, and I wasn’t shocked it was on the horizon, nor that it wanted to do so on my final day vlogging in the country. As we drove away and found ourselves on yet another side road, it truly felt like a one-way route; I couldn't help but consider the weather. The idea of a flooded path crossed my mind again, even though I didn’t think it would happen to us at that moment. 

No, it made far more sense as several cars raced by us, with our vehicle hugging the side of the road, doing its best not to drive off the nonexistent curb, to have the weather come on the return drive. Only then could we embrace this road to its full effect and correctly figure out all the low points and where we might be stranded and fodder for the dziki. 

I took a moment to glance out at the fields and the marsh we found ourselves driving across, wondering what village we would explore next. While I know I counted down till our next pull over, the clouds continued to darken. Even now, I have to think to myself what the worst weather day I dealt with was. There was torrential rain in Pzemsyl a few weeks earlier. That had to have been the worst, as I was thoroughly soaked and had only found refuge in the churches of all places. True story, I knew I couldn’t make it to the hotel fast enough, but this one church I had visited before and been locked out of was miraculously open on my return trip, eager for my eyes and for me to sit, to get a break from the nonstop rain. Come to think of it, every church in that area was unlocked. It was divine intervention when I grabbed my umbrella and spent the next hour going in and out of churches while Mother Nature did her best to ruin my filming experience.

We had no churches on this road to Zalipie, which was unpleasant to say the least. Thankfully, there were signs that we were close. Not even five minutes from the village, I spotted a shrine on the side of the road in front of a lovely modern family home. Dana pulled over to entertain my creative urge. I walked across the street and marveled at this dedication from 1903. I had no clue what the inscription said, and I should have asked for a proper translation, but what I did find that warmed my heart were the flowers on all four sides of the structure. 

Freshly painted, in the last year for sure, these were the Zalipie standard, at the very least inspired. Hand-painted with lots of color and designs, I knew we weren’t far from our final destination. These flowers were distinct in pattern and drawn the same way that had been passed down for generations, from the 19th century to the present. I loved the lupine and the roses. Honestly, each side felt like a touch of spring and summer. These were the wild flowers you would pick for your lover or your mother to smell and enjoy at home. 

Not far from this yard, we found ourselves at the wooden sign for Zalipie. If you weren’t looking for it, you would likely have driven right by on this busier main road, which made me think we took the scenic route. Had it not been for the metal fence barrier protecting the wooden structure from renegade bikes and perhaps an occasional car, we wouldn’t have spotted this side road entrance to the quiet village. 

The distinct folk art was out in the open with more flowers in what I would best describe as floral wallpaper for those who couldn’t afford any. Stenciling, gone mad, would be even more appropriate.

Let's Paint Everything


One more kilometer of driving and it was clear we had arrived at Poland’s happiest village or perhaps most gaudy. I kid a little, but when I spotted the fire department and saw the etched flower pattern underneath the windows and over the doors, it was a bit much for me. Granted, it could have been the contrast in colors, with the orange, yellow, blue, and red, but it seemed like they were forcing the tradition onto a building that didn’t need an arrangement. 

I’m sure Instagrammers would swoon over a fire department with hot red truck doors, a metal roof, and primarily a building in a greyish tone aside from the flowers and the red lining around the windows. I shrugged because I wanted to see the old village homes, one-room houses, or three-room dachas where you knew your grandparents were raised, and had to do everything without modern conveniences. That’s what I was looking for, not a bloody cement building that you tried to liven up with a stitch pattern.

Still, at the fire department, the flowers were everywhere. Who cares if I felt like I was in Kansas, among crops, fields, and only the occasional tree? Across the street, I saw what I believed was a church from the distinct wooden cross. The building itself was nothing to write home about, but all the windows had large bouquets, adorning the area, making you feel as though flowers were growing on the walls and through the cracks. I knew, though, from my limited research, the real show was the inside. 

I decided at this point to keep walking and spotted a brand new cement one-level house farther down the street that required my attention. The perfect cobblestone driveway gave away the newness of this house, and more importantly, a weird vibe. Although these same flower designs were prevalent, they felt forced. Did I say I was disappointed? I’m not trying to be negative, but I'm being honest about the fact that I just assumed the only houses with flowers were the old wooden ones. To me, it seemed like whoever built this structure was like, “Oh, we better put some flowers around the windows. And instead of painting the outside white, as they would have done in the past, we’ll have sections that are white with colorful flowers. Let’s make sure these overhead spaces can be removed if necessary.” 

Honestly, it felt weird. I was more excited to get away from this building and walk down the street to Dana and the car, wondering if she had spotted the traditional houses or if this was going to be some sham tour. As I was about to ask her if she had found out anything new or seen something better than what I had, the wheat crop became the real show. 

Let’s talk about something cool. I'm in my early forties, and I have never stepped foot in a field full of barley. This was amazing and beautiful. Had the rain not begun to fall, I likely would have considered taking a run or at least a walk through this illustrious area, to take on the role of Maximus in Gladiator when he did the same at the end of Gladiator. Don’t get me wrong, this wasn’t Pienza, Italy, but the energy felt similar to me. Sure, the barley or wheat wasn’t that high either, but it was still in the same spirit.
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A Real House Tour



My opinion of Zalipie began to shift at this moment. The modern build across the street, with its high-end metal gate and painted flower trim, did little to sway the fact that older homes on the horizon begged for attention. A house for sale on the right did nothing for me, but what appeared to be the original home in front made the folk art come alive. There was no denying the large dandelion bushes and the flower-filled bouquet on the backside of the building, with a complementary lower lining of brown daisies guarding the bottom. 
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I still wanted to see more, as we were on the upswing. This street appeared to have more potential. As the houses were farther apart, intermittently placed with fields in between them and the occasional grouping of trees, the jackpot was a short walk away. Dana was indispensable at this point. 

Part of me was ready to simply film the outside of the best house we had found, one that could have been the selling part for any Instagrammer, but she was adamant that we go in through the gate and see about touring the house itself. I’ll be the first to say, I wouldn’t have done this without her. Even though this little hamlet is known to get tourists, as a New Englander, we don’t just walk into someone’s house without permission, let alone onto their property. 

Dana was confident we could. As I stood across the street and waited for the sign, she went across the threshold and talked to the older woman, the caretaker of the house. Only after getting her blessing, did I resume filming and take in what was the pivotal moment of this village tour. To begin, this house from the outside was immaculate. This woman and her family, for the previous sixty years, had painstakingly cared for this home. 

The grass was trimmed, flowers aligned the property, especially the rose bushes, which were cut back enough to allow each stem and blossom to flourish. It was a property that my grandmother would have been proud to see, and it brought me back to her rose bushes in Tucson, Arizona. 

I tried to take it all in, even as I provided commentary on my camera. Even now, as I think back, I rewatch the clips and smile. The metal gate had sections painted with white flower designs, and the outside of the house was covered in bouquets perfectly hand-drawn in between freshly painted window frames. I preferred the colorful assortment of flowers serving as the trim between the outer wall and the foundation. 

The fruit trees added to the ambiance, along with the hand-painted well, benches, and barn. Nothing was left untouched, even the pail that was used for the well, the flower pots, or the dog house. With each step, you were taken back in time, and got a glimpse of what these women did to brighten up family homes that were covered in soot. 

Crossing the threshold into the house, this wasn’t some hoarder’s home, but a real place you would look forward to visiting and spending time in. More art filled the walls, with the familiar trim and etchings of free-hand sketched flowers. In the United States, we might use wallpaper or stenciling to get the perfect alignment and array of these floral designs; this was an art form in itself in Zalipie.

Our hostess explained how her great-grandmother had learned the craft and had passed it down through generations, with her now doing the same for her daughter. This wasn’t a gift for the men in the family to learn; they could only appreciate the tradition these women and others like them continued to share and imitate. 

What I loved the most from being inside, aside from our hostess’s hospitality, was the brightness of the white walls mixed in with all the flowers. Truly, there was such warmth in each room, especially where the food was prepared. The old wooden stove that I was more familiar with seeing in rural Ukraine was here as well. Just as with the walls, every surface was painted. Where the wood would be placed to keep the fire going, so one could boil their water or cook their afternoon meal, a myriad of bouquets and colors livened up the space. 

I wondered how long it took to paint these beauties and how often they would refresh. If these women were anything like my sister, who seems to repaint her walls on an annual basis, I would surmise that each season the walls were painted over in white, and then the flowers appeared shortly thereafter. They were too vibrant to have been there for a more extended period, but then again, I could be wrong. 

One Pretty House


Author Jonathan Kuiper in Zalipie, Poland, pointing to a traditional wooden cottage decorated with hand-painted floral folk art, part of his Forever Poland memoir travels.
When the house tour ended and we were back on the roadside, I was relieved to get a proper glimpse into this area’s past and the traditions that had begun a hundred and fifty years earlier. Not far from this masterpiece, across the street, I found an even more delightful home. Between the white picket fence with our favorite flowers aligning every few posts and a handful of trees guarding the entrance, this one-level home with a red wooden thatched roof and white painted boards was what I hoped to encounter. 
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Between the bright blue window trim and matching door, the flowers were simply the icing on the cake. Placed between each window frame, there was nothing left uncovered, and that was okay with me. This was just folk beauty at its finest. 

The best part was above the door frame. What I would label a little touch of heaven, placed over a simple red and purple design, was a horseshoe and dried up lavender, or perhaps mistletoe, mugwort, or some other bundle of dried herbs. I wasn’t sure as to the meaning of the placement, whether it was to ward off spirits or specific bugs, but I knew this was a proper folk tradition. 

Looking at the entire scene before me, with the fields and the storm passing overhead, I could imagine myself in 19th-century Polish countryside, and for that I was thankful. 

While my folk art palate was finally satisfied, I found myself crossing the street and down someone’s private road after I caught a glimpse of one of my favorite things to see in Poland. How I spotted this remains a mystery to me, especially as I walked for a couple of minutes past my new love, the wheat fields, and to the edge of someone’s house. There, on the edge, tucked behind the shrubs and a modern metal gate, stood a family shrine to Mary. 

I was tempted to open the gate and read the inscription, but it was enough to see the cross and Mary within the glass enclosure. First, Boratyn and then in places like Przemysl, Krosno, and Skawina, this was another fitting reminder of how things are done in rural Poland. Outside the big cities, these artifacts and relics show the Roman Catholic traditions of this country.

Our journey to Zalipie concluded a few minutes later, but only after we found ourselves at the village center and their meeting house. With multiple maps, any visitor could easily see that Dana and I had only started the exploration of Poland’s happiest village. I was taken aback by the number of homes listed, and for that matter, the distances it would take to walk and explore each one. No, they weren’t all next to each other, not in the least.

And yet, that was okay. We got a taste of the traditions that the women of the area had been passing down through generations to brighten their homes and so that other locals would know who the eligible brides to be were. As I did a final walk-through of the visitor center and explored the various hallways, adorned with the same vibrant flowers I had seen in my new favorite home, I heard and saw little girls running in the hallway. 

Laughter and giggles livened up the entire space, serving as a fitting tribute to their mothers, who met in the adjacent room, where they painted and stitched. While the wooden homes will eventually need to be replaced by more modern ones, it’s safe to say that the traditions will continue in this part of Poland, and for that, I’m grateful.

I, for one, took this last vlogging trip in stride. As with many of my adventures, I didn’t know what to expect, what was real, and what was going to be grossly exaggerated. What was nice to see was the lack of tourists gracing this area, and that it was more than just flowers that made the journey worthwhile. Truly, the high points for me, aside from the company, were the elephants and the cemetery. I enjoyed the flowers too, but come on, where else could I relieve Maximus’s final dream sequence? Yes, that, my friends, is what Poland is all about. 


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Zalipie – The Drive In (Forever Poland Excerpt)

10/5/2025

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In the spirit of my Poland travels, I've been working on a memoir that encompasses all of my trips while living in Poland. The working title of the book is Forever Poland. Right now, I'm about 50,000 words in. With the follow-up to Rusty Star ongoing the second part of Forever Poland has to wait til January for the proper time to revisit the book and finish the remaining chapters. 

I wanted to share more of the writing process, so here's part one of my trip to Zalipie, which I also documented in a YouTube video blog on Travel with Mr. Jon. I'll include that at the end for your viewing pleasure. In the meantime, grab some coffee or tea and indulge in this first draft of my road trip to Poland's happiest and prettiest Village.

Zalipie - The Drive In 


My time in Poland was coming to an abrupt end, faster than I wished, but it was necessary because family obligations back in the United States demanded my attention. Still, I wanted to get out and see more of the countryside in those final days. Two weeks earlier, I had my return trip to Przemysl, and in my final weekend, I jetted up to Warsaw to pay my respects. The question remained, where else could I go close enough to Kraków and a manageable day trip?
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Remembering the incessant Instagram posts on what to do in Poland and several travel blogs listing the top ten things to see or visit in southern Poland, the quintessential Polish village kept being pushed to the forefront. Whispers became downright shouting about Zalipie, the place behind the linden trees. My coworkers mentioned how it was a must, and all I can ask to this day is whether they went to the place. Truly, that’s what I took after this midday trip with a friend. More on that in a bit. Note to self that sometimes the journey is better than the destination, and this trip was that for me.

Before we try to put the horse back in the barn, let’s start from the beginning. When Dana asked if we could get together the day before I flew back to the United States, I half-mentioned that I had considered looking into one more travel vlog. Already, my travel partner for some other day trips from Nowa Huta, Poland’s Desert, and to a forest near Skawina, Dana was game for one more run. We likely could have found another spot in Kraków to take in, as there is so much to see and places many tourists overlook. And yet, I didn’t see the point in trying to top the Elvis Presley Monument, where I got to rub his head and wonder which superfan created this masterpiece. 

No, it was far easier to settle on Zalipie, the folk town where women painted flowers on all the homes and structures, passed down from generation to generation to beautify their gloomy, dark wooden homes, dealing with the grime of coal and other burning substances. Oh yeah, this seemed like a promising idea, especially since Dana’s kids weren't up for the trip, which made me wonder if it wasn’t as cool as social media had made it out to be. We had no idea what we were in for, except for what Google Maps showed by clicking on the occasional image. 

Having traveled many times this school year, I didn’t want to ruin the trip by seeing too much in advance. Why bother going if we can simply look at a photograph? There would be no further inquiries. I put further research aside. Dana input the village name into her GPS, and we set out mid-morning for a route none of us had previously experienced. 

Romanian by blood, Dana had done her fair share of exploring with her family. She had taken her kids to the desert, which prompted me to visit, although I questioned whether they enjoyed the location, especially since it was underwhelming to me. Maybe it’s because we are grown adults, and it just takes more to get one excited about different things. I hoped this would prove a better trip, one where both of us found the area intriguing and worth the gas mileage. 

We never took train trips together; it was always by car. I was already accustomed to Dana’s lead foot, which would make her a good fit with drivers in Maine or New Hampshire, especially on the highways. As we merged onto A4 and drove towards Tarnów, I found it fun to see the trains in the distance. On several trips, I had been on those trains, yet on this one, we were racing past the approaching trains as they made their final approach to the city.

Our route was going to be straightforward with the highway as our focal point until we got to the outskirts of Tarnów. We were either in the vicinity or passing several areas I had penciled in on potential trips, and they had all fallen through for a litany of reasons. 

Wieliczka was the first place I saw on Rick Steeves's guide to the area. Known for the 13th-century salt mine, it was part tourist trap and part amazing. To this day, I wish I had ventured over via the train, the same one that goes back and forth to the airport on the hour, to simply explore the chapel of St. Kinga, which is made entirely of salt. I know pictures don’t do it justice, and yet I never found the time to visit. 

I believe it was the number of tourists I feared would frequent the same spot, and I didn’t see the point in paying an entrance fee for Mass. I recall reading that attending Mass only was free of charge, but I could never confirm. To that end, as we drove past the signs for that area, I was remiss about a missed opportunity. I might have dwelt longer on this until I saw the sign for Bochnia. 

Ironic as it may be, this is home to another mine, just not as popular as the one in Kraków. When I looked for alternatives to Wieliczka, this small city came up in my search. Unlike the latter, there is a water crossing within the mine. Instead of walking everywhere, this mine had an actual boat ride, perhaps the only one in Poland or Europe. I didn’t care enough to dig too deep on this one, but it was an alternative that passed the preliminary travel options on a future trip to Tarnów. 

Here we were driving by, but Dana had no intention of stopping, nor was I inclined to ask her to do so. Our mission today was to find Poland’s happiest village and hopefully some content that made sense. 

I lost track of the time, so when we turned off to Wierzchosławice and away from Tarnów, we were at the mercy of the side roads and heading north. What I do remember were fields, lots of them, and the occasional town. Nothing stood out until we were on 975 and driving through Radlow. I remember as if it were yesterday, even though I failed to catch it on camera. 

This is the fun part of the story because this trip was one that remains on my channel, and so I had an opportunity to watch and remember what we found and what made the cut. Truth be told, the camera was put away the entire drive up until this juncture. Who wants to look at the highway, signs, and in this case, fields? 

I told Dana to slow down as I saw this beautiful brick church off in the distance. The bridge we were on was the high point for this valley, with you guessed it, more fields, but the church, which seemed interesting enough that I considered asking her to veer towards its direction, until I didn’t. I might have said something had the GPS taken us in that vicinity, but instead, it had us taking the right between two vast cornfields. Only in June, the corn was growing, but not yet the high stalks we come to appreciate in the late summer season, let alone before they are ready to be plucked and harvested.


The Cornfields - the Real Show


In our favour, I looked out and spotted a cemetery to our immediate left. A tractor-trailer sped by, and I had to call out for Dana to stop. She knows of my obsession with cemeteries and had to make a phone call, so the timing was ideal, as is often the case with many of my vlogging sessions. 

I will share that this wasn’t some quiet road either. We weren’t the only vehicle driving towards Zabno. There wasn’t even a proper pull-off. This was the countryside, and had it not been for the cemetery and the poorly maintained grass, Dana would have had to park off kilter on the edge of the road. I got out of the car and walked towards this beauty of a memorial. 

I had to laugh because, truly, corn was planted around every part of this thing. The fact that there was a path of sorts seemed weird, but then again, this cemetery in the middle of a cornfield and high-voltage power lines was equally amusing. 

The obelisk with the distinct cross towered over the crops, a full eleven meters high, and made this resting place for World War I soldiers even more fitting. A sign indicated that this was from late 1914 and early 1915, and soldiers from multiple sides were stationed in different sections of this relatively small outdoor shrine. A lone poppy grew proudly near the remains of some British soldiers. I spotted the German and Russian markers before climbing over the rock wall to take another look at the corn that enwrapped itself in this resting place for these soldiers. 

Unlike cemeteries I had traveled to and explored over the past year in Poland, this one was different. The energy alone was unique, and these graves made me reflect on war, and how these soldiers were put here out of convenience, much like many others in this part of the countryside. I wasn’t aware until after the fact, how many WWI graves are littered across these small towns, villages, and cities. I saw larger, more significant resting spots for these armies in places like Przemysl and Giżycko, but here was fitting for men at war who traveled to a foreign land, and this was what they had time for. 

It wasn’t glorious, nor did these men get much recognition for their efforts, and yet this proved they weren’t forgotten either. 

Truly, as I walked back to the road and spotted another plot across the street, nestled between a grove of trees with a cornfield as its perimeter, this felt fitting and peaceful. The grave marker told me everything I needed to know, with something like two hundred and ten Russian soldiers placed in a mass grave. This walk was a longer one, set farther back off the road, and yet more inviting. 

Four crosses took my breath away, and yet I focused on the fact that we had two small cemeteries with all this fertile land around them. I used the analogy on camera about how, even in death, there was a sense of renewal and rebirth that tied everything together. As I circled the wall, with only one entrance, I spotted more information about the five mass graves and three individual ones. 

Indeed, learning more about this place was informative, but the crosses over the mass grave were not what I expected. They spoke to me at some level. The trees surrounding the wall seemed like the rear guard, standing watch over these brave men who lost their lives. More than one hundred years after the fact, I could get a sense of the toil, the struggle, and perhaps even, as a veteran, I could relate to this loss of innocence and what these soldiers experienced, and those who served with them. 

The place was surreal and not an expected layover or wayward point. And yet, finding these cemeteries on the way to Poland’s happiest village seemed ironic and fitting at the same time. Dana missed all the fun, but then again, I don’t think she realized this might be the high point of our adventure. 

We might have been on the high ground, because for the next few minutes we continued to drive in this low-level area that I swore was more of a flood plain, or a potential one. I even imagined the river overflowing and then feeding and nourishing these fields to produce the corn that would make even Kansas proud. 
​

My New Favorite Team 


Author Jonathan Kuiper posing with the elephant mascot of Bruk-Bet Termalica Nieciecza football team in Poland.
Zalipie was still several minutes out, and I couldn’t tell either way what, if anything, we would find. Flashbacks to our trip to the desert continued to linger, not because the desert was underwhelming, but from the anticipation we had near the Eagle’s Nest and the many side roads we found ourselves swinging onto, looking for the remnants of Poland’s castles and keeps. We can leave out the variety of those ruins and being charged for a relic that was a waste of time for a series of stones that barely resembled any structure, and yet, if we hadn’t gone in that direction, we would have missed that town with the old manor that begged for more attention.

I was banking on the same win, if you will, as we drove along the outskirts of Zabno. The first thing of notice was the stadium adjacent to a few streets of homes. This mammoth structure looked out of place among the low-lying plains that we drove through to reach the parking lot. We didn’t even stop for the football component, because as I shared freely in my vlog, I’m not the biggest fan. Granted, this has changed slightly, in that now I can boast of going to a Premier League match in the UK, but I wouldn’t say I’m more than a cursory viewer who simply checks scores and now wants to see what Jamie Vardy is up to.  

​As for Polish football, I can tell you next to nothing save that many of the cities I explored have some decent-sized stadiums, especially Opole and Rybnik, which was a bit surprising considering they aren’t huge cities. Out here in the sticks, we found ourselves parked out front of the 4500+ seat Bruk-Bet Termalica Nieciecza home field, which looked cool among the fields and the ominous storm clouds that decided to visit us. I got out of the car quicker than I should, considering the subject matter, but where else do you find giant elephants roaming? 
​

That’s right, I was suckered in at the front gates by not one, but two elephants that demanded a photo op. I was surprised at my eagerness, but then again, these life-size cuties were worth the few-minute detour. The finishing on both of them was quite life-like between the soulful eyes and the tusks. I believed I took to them so much that I used it as my thumbnail for multiple media sites. People were expecting painted flowers, but I gave them elephants. (No wonder my channel has never taken off. I digress for a moment.)

I thought that would be the end of it and a quick return to the car, but no, I had to walk to the entrance to get a glimpse of the stadium. Part of me wanted to be able to go in and film these hallowed grounds, but alas, I kept walking the perimeter of the stadium only to walk away empty-handed. When I thought the exploring was over, in the back fields, the best part of this place came into full view. Don’t get me wrong, I spotted several homes with a gluttony of fresh flowers in full bloom, certainly a preview of what was about to come, but no a short walk from a portable toilet, I found more elephants. 

These elephants were glorious. In the center of the cul-de-sac, with a few homes in the background, a large field, a cemetery, and those storm clouds that I knew were going to wreak havoc shortly thereafter, the family of three was beyond adorable. I don’t know whether it was the green astroturf skin, although maybe it was real grass, but between the dad with his tusks, the mom, and the baby that I got to pet, these elephants were a sight to behold. 

Talk about a family to have in your front yard. If I’m being entirely honest, I was a bit jealous of the two kids on their bicycles circling these fine animals as they turned for some midday cemetery riding. After paying my respects to the trio that I wished were back at my school, guarding the entrance, as opposed to looking like they were getting ready to partake in a football game, I took one final look at the storm clouds. 

It wasn’t a matter of if the early summer thunderstorm would come, but more of a when. The darker the clouds became, the sooner it would be. The question remained as I got back in the car, as to whether we would skirt by the edge of the storm or get walloped. One would be preferred over the other as we hadn’t even gotten to the village yet, and filmed what was supposed to be the apex of this travel vlog. 

Still, it was beyond our control, and it’s not like I hadn’t trekked across this country in good and bad conditions. Heck, in Warsaw, I got stuck in a bloody hailstorm while finishing up a vlog en route to a date that I wish had never happened. I take that back; the Indian restaurant was worth trying, but the remaining hours of aimless walking and sitting in a café were not on my to-do list with a person I didn’t truly resonate with. 

Rain seemed to follow me everywhere in Poland, and I wasn’t shocked it was on the horizon, nor that it wanted to do so on my final day vlogging in the country. As we drove away and found ourselves on yet another side road, it truly felt like a one-way route; I couldn't help but consider the weather. The idea of a flooded path crossed my mind again, even though I didn’t think it would happen to us at that moment. 


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Jonny’s Rant on Americans Abroad: Stop Following the Herd

9/21/2025

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The Same Old Cities, Again and Again


Liverpool mascot at train stationDo you even know this cutie?
My fellow Americans are snobby when it comes to their travel. Being one, not a snob, but an American, I can dive into this topic and share this ridiculousness about Americans and their travel choices. 

Let’s be clear, I can’t tell you the number of times I've mentioned that I live in Italy, only to have people ask me about Rome, Venice, and Milan, as those were the big three that people associate with Italy. Granted, this is an older demographic, so if you skew younger, such as a social media generation, then it’s Cinque Terre, Siena, and Florence. 

Come to think of it, Tuscany is said way too much as well, like it’s a catch phrase. I love my nephew dearly, but when I found out he was going to these hot spots in Italy, or at least some of them, I rolled my eyes and said to myself, “You’re missing the real Italian life.” It’s true. While I have been pushing Brindisi and Me quite a bit, this isn’t a go-to Puglia plug; this is just a venting blog about Americans who need to get out of the tourist hotspots and find another city or region, other than what their friends did last year or they saw on TikTok. 



Hidden Gems Are Everywhere


Lake Ieso in northern Italy is from a dream and not as crowded at Lake ComoLake Ieso is like living in a dream
A friend of mine recently returned from Bulgaria and thoroughly enjoyed the entire experience. I can guarantee you it wasn’t overcrowded, like the Spanish Steps or for those trying to get a photo of the Coliseum. Pick your battles. If you want to travel and see different places, you don’t have to go off the beaten path, but at least pick up a map and consider other options. 

Let’s take France for a moment. I will share that there was a time I fantasized about a trip to Paris. A true romantic, how could I not? I even booked a trip to Paris, but when a chance to visit Vilnius opened up for the same weekend, I didn’t even flinch. My love for Vilnius is well known, but back to Paris. I recall watching Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy in Before Sunset, as they walked the streets and along the River Seine. It was lovely, and downright inspiring. The frugal traveler in me, the one that doesn’t want to break the bank, won’t even consider a trip, because I’m too old to stay in a hostel (at least one there lol), the apartments are overpriced, and the price point for a decent hotel is not worth the effort when you can still see France and get a feel in other places where the locals don’t actually hate you. Cue, Carcassonne. Talk about a lovely little city, an hour or so from Toulouse in southern France. 

Last October, I was delighted to get that as a stopover. The food was terrific, both on the first night and at lunch the next day, before I decided to dive in and eat some closed mussels, as if it were amateur night. Any New Englander knows not to eat mussels from a closed shell, but why not? Who cares if they taste a bit off? My stomach and intestinal tract the next morning weren’t too pleased. Guess which guy didn’t bring any stomach medicine, and all the pharmacies were closed because it was Sunday? Yeah, this guy. 

That aside, what a beautiful city. I fell in love with the quaint old town area, its river path, and, drum roll, please, the castle with restaurants, shops, and everything in between, just a short walk across the river. There were people there, but not the crowds you get elsewhere in France, and these were just locals out for their Saturday stroll. 

With a bit of research, you can find gems that offer the French or Italian experience without the financial drain and the overwhelming nature of crowds and high tourist season. Does anyone know about Lake Iseo in northern Italy, or are you too fixated on Lake Como and that area? I created a vlog about the small city of Iseo and explored the area to show that you can enjoy a great meal, spectacular views, and avoid the crowds by simply traveling a few hours away from Milan. It’s easy, you just have to be adventurous, and even though this is not adventurous, it’s a calculated measure. 

I can say the same thing for England. I’ve mentioned before that I’ve only been to London once, but I've visited England six times. Just like the same travelers back home who harp on Rome and Tuscany as the end-all of Italy, London is not the United Kingdom. It’s not even really England. The one time I went there for a holiday weekend, I stayed near Hyde Park, and I didn’t hear any English. No joke, it was all foreigners everywhere I went. That’s not authentic. The prices certainly are higher; that’s a given.

Now, why don’t you fly into Manchester or Liverpool and visit either of those cities? Personally, I prefer Liverpool being right on the water, and I'm a big fan of the Beatles. That’s a place I can wrap my head around and enjoy. Did I mention people are friendly there? They are also, for the most part, clearly locals, making for a more refreshing experience. Then again, you can go somewhere smaller like Llandudno, Southport, Morecambe, and get wrapped up in a different vibe, or head to the Midlands and visit Nottingham or Leicester.

People who genuinely want to experience a country, rather than just check a box so they can brag to their friends that they went to a particular location and spent a lot of money, will get precisely what I’m talking about. This is why I bang my travel drum on countries like Poland, Slovakia, Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia. You see historical cities and towns, with easy transportation methods, great food, and a unique energy that doesn’t pull the same soul strings as Western European spots.

Every time I hear someone say they've been to Lisbon, Madrid, or Barcelona, I ask, “Have you been to the Balkans? Going to Tirana or maybe Belgrade?” There’s a counter to these madhouse places where the locals aren’t keen on tourists, except for taking your money at overpriced restaurants or tourist traps, or worse, literally stealing your wallet and electronics, because they see you as targets. 

Do you want some fresh fruit that will leave a lasting memory? Go to Durres, Albania. Watermelon tastes like pure natural sugar water in that seaside vista. I would go back just to get the watermelon, and I can’t stomach it in the States. You want Greece? Why go to a dirty, crowded city like Athens, when you can sneak up to Thessalonki and then spend an overnight trip in a small village like Agia Triada where the stray dogs will hit you up for a food toll, but the cold beer, the fresh seafood, and the majestic water of the Aegean Sea will leave you with a lasting memory and no hangover from crowds and congestion. 


​Rethink the Way You Travel


Irish Sea views from the Great Orme in northern WalesThe Irish Sea is a sight to be hold from the Great Orme
Americans, in particular, need to get off the travel bandwagon. If I read one more article about the overcrowded hot spots in Europe over the summer months Americans are flocking to, even though it’s downright miserable to travel to many of these places during that frame, I might just hide my head in the Moroccan sand until the winter comes again. Honestly, do we really need to read another blog about how small the hotel room was and how there was no air conditioning? Did you not look over your listing at Booking.com? Better yet, did you conduct any research, or was it just “Let’s go where everyone else goes?” 

I wouldn’t be so adamant about his topic, but when do you think Europeans travel? Newsflash: they also take a holiday in the summer. Why not think outside the box and go during the off-season when at least the kids are back in school? Is it really necessary to play this overseas travel game during the same time frame? 

Wow, I didn’t realize how worked up I get on this topic. I suppose I just want to get off the beaten path, or at least avoid running into a bunch of fellow Americans in the exact location when I happen to be exploring Europe and other parts of the world. The goal is to experience new places, new cultures, and, of course, culinary delights. If you want to see other Americans, then so be it; hit the major cities, just like everyone else, at the exact high times of the year. Go for it, and you’ll miss out on what traveling is intended to be and what it can show you about yourself and your connection to the world. 

I could be wrong, but that’s my two cents on the topic, and I’m sticking to it.

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An Old Friend Called Vilnius

9/7/2025

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Many travelers will share that certain places carry more weight and have more value, because they take a lasting memory that means more to them than even a childhood dream or event. Sometimes I wonder whether I have achieved this gravitas in some areas more than others. It doesn’t take long to realize that, of course, many places stand out, especially after completing a recent trip, such as my Friday overnight adventure to Gibraltar. 

For me, it’s when I’m traveling to other locations, new or old, that those trivial moments from previous trips take hold. The weight of those areas resonates the most and reminds me of what truly touches my soul at a deeper level. I have no choice but to phrase it this way, especially as my recent trip, while an interesting one, felt more business-like than a life-long marker. I didn’t leave wanting more, nor any desire to return and walk those streets.

Don’t get me wrong, Gibraltar was fine enough, but it didn’t sing to me like Carcassonne where I felt the pulse of the small city the moment I stepped onto the bus and watched the thunderstorm pound away at the quaint streets and left a watery path for me to follow on my way to a front street bistro that remains one of my favorite meals to date. I couldn't care less about the falling rain, as these ancient streets with magnificent, leafy, and vibrant trees, featuring massive branches that appeared ready to snatch you up and hug you to morning, were undeniably difficult to ignore. 

Gilbraltar, on the other hand, was meh. Maybe it’s the heaviness of being a place where so many battles took place and rebuilding layers upon layers on those walls, the fort, and other areas of the region. I simply didn’t feel the love. To me, it came across as a glorified theme park, a region of Universal Studios, if you will, where Great Britain is the theme. That’s what it felt like, even in the parks, the cemetery, and with the waterfall on the far end of The Rock. 

First Glimpses of Vilnius: A City That Stayed With Me


Snowy night along the Neris River in Vilnius, with reflections of city lights on the water, captured during a quiet winter walk.
For me, genuine love of a location comes from an immediate understanding. One can just look out the window from a taxi or bus and see that where they are means something more. I have that feeling for Vilnius. If there’s one city that struck a nerve and made me want to return for more, Vilnius has to be that place. 

Strangely enough, I got glimpses the first time I went, and not necessarily in the way one would think, when I brought a group of students for a Math Counts competition. We were accommodated at the Radisson Blu Hotel, and after settling into our rooms, we crossed the street to the CUP mall for food and some exploration. This was a low-key affair, for sure, but sitting in the booth waiting on pizza and other snacks created an ambiance I didn’t expect. There was a touch of playfulness in the air and yet a stillness I hadn’t felt all winter until that moment. It might have been from the embankment below, with the beautiful Neris River in the darkness of early February, that made things interesting. There was more going on than meets the eye, and I could sense that from the very beginning. 

This was so much the case that shortly after the meal, I took all the students for a walk along the river towards Gediminas’ Tower. Despite the high water mark of the river (thankfully, I couldn’t tell how high it was until morning), the magnificent path towards the old center brought a calmness I had never felt with a group of students present. 

There was a flow to the water that matched my pace. If not for the students, I’m sure I would have stayed longer along the water’s edge and gone closer to the many churches and cafes that lined the inner quarter of the city. 

Vilnius always had more layers than what first met the eye. On a later visit, I found a park in
Užupis that carried the same stillness I felt that first night.



Dominican Church of St. Philip and St. Jacob in Vilnius, glowing rust-orange under spotlights on a cold February night.
By the time the next morning came, I was hooked. And it wasn’t because of some magical moment, although the power going out in the building at four in the morning was something to remember. The entire block went black. The boisterous lights from the mall flickered out, and all the buildings around us, the skyscraper lane, went incognito in a matter of seconds. 

I’ll admit, I was unsure what to take from the events playing out before me. I simply put on my running gear for the chilly twenty-something-degree weather and went out to find the stillness in the area and get the overall vibe before the day got ahead of us. 

While my run was an interesting one, the darkness persisted after my return. There was no getting around the fact that I couldn’t even get into my room without using the stairs. Then it hit me: the students, as they shifted to school mode, would be stirring and would need answers to why their rooms were indefinitely dark. Now you try going up to the 16th floor to check on a group of tweens who had no idea what was going on. I’ll never forget scaling those steps, but I was still aware that this was simply an inconvenience and not the end. 

This was the motto for the trip. Leaving the 16th floor to check on other students on the 8th or 9th floor, because the hotel didn’t understand we wanted our students placed together, brought more laughter than annoyance. Maybe next time, they’ll understand better why schools wish to keep their students on the same floor—either way, it gave us all an experience to remember. For me, it was just a different wink to consider. 

Sure, we explored the city, got a feel for the cobblestones, and the old churches with artwork that would stir even the most hardened soul. But the final memory that got me was on the morning we were leaving. For one, I was relieved the power had returned, and that we were done with the competition. I wanted more time in the city, because playing chaperone doesn’t give you time or space to explore and discover as a solo trip would. 

In the meantime, leaving our hotel in the early morning hours for a walk to film a short vlog left a permanent etch. Cold, only fifteen or eighteen degrees, there was a distinct chill in the air, enough to remind me that the scarf I brought was a necessity, as were the black pair of gloves to protect me from the elements. It was so cold that I didn’t even know if my camera would work, and yet I walked down from the hotel, across the pedestrian bridge, and then turned right onto an adjacent street. 

There were no miracles along this path. Instead, there was familiarity and a sense of peace. The rusted orange colors, or they appeared as much to my color spectrum, of the Dominican Church of St. Philip and St. Jacob left me in awe. With a few perfectly placed spotlights, this church appeared as an icon in the early morning darkness. There was no need even to try the locked doors, because it was enough to take in the sight of the remodeled beauty and go back to what it must have felt like when the church was first built and parishioners made their morning or weekly pilgrimage. 

Time was not on my side that morning, knowing that it was a matter of minutes until I had to reunite with my students, get some breakfast, and then head to the airport for the flight home. A seventeen-minute walk in the frigid temps, the last morning of a two-night visit, opened my eyes and heart to a city I would need to visit again and again.


Why Vilnius Feels Like an Old Friend


There was barely a glimpse, but there was understanding. For that, I continue to return and embrace what Vilnius has to offer, from the varied architecture, the exquisite churches, historical monuments, and places that force you to reflect, may it be the old Jewish cemetery pilfered by the local government for buildings and roads, to the distinct crosses on the hill for the first martyrs. Vilnius stirs the soul more than any other city I have walked and enjoyed. For that, I’m forever grateful. 
​
As for Gibraltar, we can’t win them all, but at least I gave it a go and that’s something, right? 
We don’t always know which places will claim us, but when they do, they linger like an old friend in the corner of the room. For me, Vilnius is that friend—quiet, steady, impossible to forget.   

What about you? Which city still whispers your name, long after you’ve left its streets?

​At the very least, take heart knowing that traveling is a blessing for us all. It opens our eyes to the familiar and the unknown, making it all coherent in a way that meets us where we are and where we're going in the days ahead.  

If words aren't enough, here's the walk itself - through the very streets, river, and church that claimed me on that first visit. It's the last ten or so minutes if memory serves.

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Asilah, Morocco: A Not-So-Quiet Escape

9/3/2025

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Blue and yellow mural in Asilah, Morocco featuring cats, fish, and seaside motifs, painted on the walls of the medina.
 Well, it finally happened. That’s right, this guy left Tangier and ventured out into the big world of Morocco. Did I go south to Marrakesh? No way, I would be way overstimulated, and I didn’t venture to the mountains of Fez. No, it was far easier to escape to the magic of Asilah.

Wait, you haven’t heard of Asilah? Neither had I, but my coworkers raved about the place and how beautiful it was, a much quieter place of refuge from the busyness of Tangier. We had a holiday in between in-service, and I took the plunge and agreed to the overnight trip.


​Getting There

Let me tell you a few tips for those traveling to this city. To get to Asilah, you can do a couple of things: take the train, or get a taxi, unless you plan to drive it yourself. It’s about forty-five minutes away, whichever route you take.

In our case, we had train tickets. We even went to the train station and got through the crack ticket checkers who waved us on to our train. Lo and behold, we got on that monster, not as lovely as the Al Boraq and that’s when the fun started.

Train Troubles

We waited for what felt like an hour for this old timer to get her bags in order. After building a sandcastle out of bags, she pushed into me as an exclamatory mark, because it was far easier to do that than to motion for me to take a step back, unaware I was standing in front of her seat. Who cares if there was a line in both directions? I digress . . .

We continued to walk to our seats, and I spotted the seat numbers like any responsible passenger. ​ A young family was sitting in our seats. Calmly, we showed them our tickets to prove that we would be riding in that very spot.

​Do you know what happened? Yes, a major traveling blunder. Honestly, it happens to the best of us. We booked the wrong week for the train tickets.


Retreating as fast as we could, we departed the train. We could have hopped on and just played stupid and dealt with a conductor mid-route, but honestly, it wasn’t worth the effort. Truly, I wasn’t even miffed about the mix-up; I was annoyed that the security detail waved us through after looking at our tickets. Shouldn’t you know what the date is? :)

Camel carrying an orange pack in a field near Asilah, Morocco, with the Atlantic Ocean visible in the background.
Taxi Tango

Then the decision had to be made: do we wait for the next train, which was three hours later, or find another means to get there? As savvy travelers, the following line item was taxis. Now, let me share that I have no issue using the Grand Taxi. In fact, I go out of my way to use them in the city. I don’t mind paying the price because they are licensed. You getting my drift here?

But you know we want to be like the locals and use those Uber-like apps that aren’t Uber or Bolt. Oh, what I would do for either one of those here in Morocco. Anyway, I digress. Instead, Careem and inDrive are ride-sharing services that are a legal entity, yet not fully, considering that they are often criticized by city taxi drivers when they are spotted on their routes. How many times did I have to pay my driver at the turn to the airport as opposed to getting out of the car at the airport? Every single trip last year when I used their services.

Case in point, our alternative driver didn’t want to pick us up in front of the train station. That would be too obvious and blatant. We decided to go across the street towards the McDonald’s. I spotted him five minutes later when he slowed down and then continued driving because a taxi driver was behind him. Again, you can’t be “caught” picking up people or something of the sort.

We had to walk another few minutes down the road and wait for our driver to do a magical loop until he felt safe to pick us up. Now, because this isn’t really Uber or Bolt, you are supposed to sit in the front passenger seat with your new buddy. Sometimes, you actually introduce yourself to the driver to get his name and vice versa. This isn’t for pleasantries; it's so that if you get pulled over by the police, you know this is your friend, not your driver. It’s all ridiculous if you ask me. Honestly, it's also not worth the headache for the potential price savings, which isn’t that dramatic for tourists or expats.

Back to the trip to Asilah ― I was car sick within minutes. Our driver decided he knew the back roads, or he simply wanted to avoid certain entities, and took us on a convoluted route through the back side of the city, over every pothole and speed bump that Tangier had to offer. Let’s not forget the section where the road was in good shape, and it was time to race up a hill to pass a tractor-trailer. My stomach gets queasy thinking about this route just to come out near the airport and swing a left onto the main road.

We could have taken the more scenic route at the circle, which I recommend if you have a choice. Seeing the ocean and the hues of the water is really worth the detour, and perhaps a more direct route (I would opt for the latter), but our driver took us on the highway for that unique experience.

Hey, at least I saw a few camels roaming the fields and a couple of horses. The drive was certainly more user-friendly than the train, even if I felt like I was going to throw up by the end. I say that because the train doesn’t take you to the center of Asilah. You still are going to have a good fifteen minute walk, maybe twenty, depending on your speed, on a road that has some seriously overgrown bushes, some questionable drivers, and a short adventure across what used to be a pedestrian bridge but now has barriers in place for you to navigate on your way towards the boardwalk. Let's hear three cheers for Google Maps and this amazing route. No really, what a way to walk.

Colorful mural in Asilah, Morocco showing human eyes surrounded by flowers, leaves, birds, and a ship, part of the city’s famous street art.
First Impressions

Regarding the personal driver experience, we were dropped off directly in front of their kasbah, which was very convenient. You are immediately thrown into the thick of things, including the many random or not-so-random men who are standing roadside waving keys in your direction.

I know, I know, I thought the same thing. What are you doing with those keys? No, I’m not interested. But slow down, ignorant travelers, these entrepreneurs are simply showing you they have rooms for the night, and that special room is yours for a price. I don’t know anyone who has taken up the offer, but you can’t miss these gentlemen coming in off the toll road down to the city center.

So, if you haven’t booked a room and want to do things authentically, with a bit of an adventurous side, this might be your lucky day.

We were more proactive and booked an apartment for the night in the middle of the medina, thinking the charm of the area would provide the respite we both so desperately needed. Two giant flags struck me within moments of our arrival outside the old kasbah gate. One, why is the Portuguese style so different? Truly, the tower has a distinct energy, and you can see that for yourself if you visit and compare it to similar gates and towers around Morocco. The other flag, a redder one of sorts, and not the Moroccan kind, was the fact that our host for the evening sent their daughter to meet us. There were multiple phone exchanges, but then, when the time came, we were led by this young woman to our home for the evening.

That seemed odd to me. The next part confirmed the oddity as we turned left into an inner courtyard, or more like a bloody tunnel, with an attached courtyard, where people were busy cooking and preparing a large meal. Our hostess was quick to point out that those people were getting ready for a wedding. Oh, there’s a bigger and brighter flag, if you ask me. I was prepared to reconsider where we were staying, but then again, this one-bedroom apartment with air conditioning was nestled right on this street directly in the center, offering a multitude of shops that provided charm and the ambiance many seek out when visiting Morocco.

The Wedding Crashers

My friend reassured me that this was a quiet area. Now let me tell you a few things, it was clear to me that the wedding preparations were suspect. Like, why were they preparing food right in that kitchen, outside our apartment door, and the bedroom window? Hmm, it doesn’t take a competent person to realize that was the bride’s family. Now our hostess and her mother reassured us, “No, the wedding isn’t here. It’s nearby, but not right here.” She even pointed at the apartment. With an innocent smile that only irked me more as the evening played out, she added a simple, “The party will be done by midnight.”

I don’t know why we didn’t just scream out loud, “That’s a bunch of bull.”


You can complete the word for posterity's sake. Honestly, when I moved here last year, nightly you would hear the wedding car line up at all hours of the early morning as they drove through Tangier in some glorified 1950s promenade drive, but with everyone hanging out the window and horns blaring incessantly with a blatant disregard for people who are trying to sleep. Then again, maybe it's just me and the fact I like sleeping in the early morning hours. I could be complaining about nothing. 

That’s the wedding model, the after party. Meanwhile, in the city streets, if they haven’t taken to their cars yet, they have bands, and this procession meanders and plays for hours on end, celebrating this pairing. This is the Moroccan reality. Some people love it, and well then there’s me. Let me stress there’s a reason I have an apartment with double-pane windows.

Before we took to the streets of the medina and later to the beach, another flag reared its ugly head. The bedroom window was not only open, even with the shutters closed, the slits were wide enough for not only a rat or two to visit us, but anyone from the corridor or from the wedding party could look in. The glorified drapes were sheer, which was nice for decoration's sake, but not enough for privacy.

We both noticed this before our afternoon excursion. Now, don’t get me wrong, Asilah is quite the charmer; you’ll see that in my vlog. However, let me tell you this: for a quiet city on the shoreline, the serenity we experienced lasted only for an hour or two after exploring the narrow streets and murals. What we planned to be a peaceful evening wasn’t anywhere close to that state.

If it hadn’t been for a House Hunters marathon, I wouldn’t have been able to overlook the initial line of people coming in and out of the place next to ours. Our tunnel seemed like a thoroughfare. Dare I tell you about the mariachi like band or whatever local monstrosity, I mean, wonderfully talented boisterous players who decided to warm up outside the apartment door? They showed up around 8 pm and serenaded the bride and us for far too long until they marched down the alley and two minutes away to where the tent had been placed.

I wasn’t prepared for that, let alone any of the music that showed up for the next few hours. At some point, bedtime beckoned, but it was for naught. The window became a peep show for the family of the bride to be, and any potential sleep that was on the table quickly disappeared from singing, screeching, and the return of the band because they wanted to make sure we were still up well past 12:30 in the morning.

I can’t even share clearly what happened next, save that I woke up with a hangover-type headache, and I didn’t even have anything to drink. Now I know what it’s like to have a band outside your window, and trust me, it’s far worse than any John Cusack scenes holding his boombox in the early morning hours with Peter Gabriel belting out his catchy ballad. I would take hours of that song over the boom of the drums, horns, and whatever that woman kept screaming from her lungs.

Was It Worth It?

As for Asilah, I imagine it’s a great place to visit when you’re not caught up in this unique experience. Then again, the evening negated the entire adventure, and when we tried to catch our train to escape back to Tangier, the blasted locomotive was delayed for over an hour. Exhausted and beyond stimulated, we paid the thirty-five dollars for the Grand Taxi to take us back to our homes and be done with this holiday excursion.
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Maybe you’ll have better luck on your trip. If you do, let me know because I want to believe there is a quiet place in Morocco worth seeing, a proper seaside escape, but I haven’t found it yet. Then again, maybe Asilah is the cure for all travel woes. This was just an ugly wart. As long as I go back with noise-canceling headphones, get one of those rooms from the man on the street, and drink copious amounts of adult beverages, I should be good to go .  Onto the next trip, my fellow travelers . . .
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Travel Etiquette 101: 6 Annoying Habits That Ruin Trips (and How to Avoid Them)

8/12/2025

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​Why Travel Etiquette Matters

Traveling etiquette is vital for all people planning a trip locally or overseas.

After a whirlwind last week of traveling, I’m back safely in Morocco. Whether it was flying, taking the bus, or train, it was clear across continents that either people don’t know any better, or they simply don’t care about being considerate travelers. I don’t know about you, but traveling can be a double-edged sword. While it’s fun and at times relaxing, the process of getting from one location to another can be a stressful time, to say the least.

To help my fellow travelers and, frankly, people who don’t know the proper etiquette to be a good person, here’s a list I came up with while traveling on the train back from Casablanca. Yes, I understand this will come across as a rant, but how else are people going to know how to act? I simply want the travel experience to be better for everyone involved. These are in no particular order. Please let me know if you agree or disagree, or if I left something out.

1. Phone Etiquette While Traveling
It doesn’t matter what mode of transportation you are traveling in, no one wants to hear your music, your phone calls, or you scrolling through your social media accounts. If you are too old to know what headphones or earpods are, just put the phone down and remember what it was like when you were a little kid on a road trip. For those proficient in technology, there are no excuses for not exercising restraint in their daily phone habits. If your phone can’t wait, then go somewhere where you won’t disrupt others.

2. Parenting and Kids on Trips
They are wonderful and, for the most part, excited to be traveling wherever you might be going. Going on a trip doesn’t give parents a reason not to be parents. This isn’t true with all parents, but it’s clear in some parts of this world that many of you feel like kids should get free rein. Newsflash, your kids should be in their assigned seats, not sitting on luggage racks. They shouldn’t be sitting in the aisle or jumping from seat to seat when others are trying to find their assigned seats. Whatever you do, don’t just give your child the phone or iPad without headphones. There’s nothing more annoying, yes, this is a nod to many Italian flights I have been on, than kids watching movies on full volume because there was no planning or consideration. Then again, nothing beats the parents watching the latest soccer match on full blast as well.

3. Respecting Quiet Zones
One would think this is a no-brainer, but then again, either people think they are more important than everyone else, or just don’t care. Don’t act like a hotshot, and if the area you decided to sit in on the train is a quiet zone, respect the fact that that is why the majority of people bought tickets for that specific seating area. If you want to make some enemies quickly, please take out that phone and answer those calls. Make sure not to silence your phone. There was nothing more entertaining on the train to Warsaw than seeing a conductor interrupt those individuals with a scathing lecture.

4. Assigned Seating Etiquette
If there's a pet peeve about traveling that bothers me more than anything else, it has to be assigned seats. I don’t get why this is such a challenge for people to sit in the correct seat. Truly, look at your ticket and find the exact seating number. If you don’t like it, that’s tough; perhaps you should have chosen your seat more carefully or planned when buying a ticket. This is everywhere and in every country I have visited. How can I forget the Polish Karen on the way to Plock, who wasn’t sitting in her assigned seat and wanted to chew me out for asking her to move. I thought it was going to be a quiet bus ride, and this lady spread out and made a face the entire two-hour ride.

We all know those people who want the window seat and just sit there, whether on a plane or train, and they are assigned to the center or the aisle. You don’t get to dictate where you sit. Whether it’s holding up everyone else trying to get to their seat or just creating an awkward moment, be a better person and don’t be like those people. This also ties into the armrest, if you have the window seat, shift your body and use the window. If you are on the aisle, you already have one armrest. The middle armrests are for the person stuck in the center. Give them some hope for the ride, and also keep your feet out of their area.

One last comment, speaking about feet: whatever you do, don’t be like Nancy on my flight back to the States, who decided to put her sweaty feet on the back of my armrest and on several occasions graze my elbow. Truly…as if :)

5. Luggage Etiquette

This might be a bigger deal than seats. If you have ever flown on a budget flight like Ryanair, you know why I am mentioning this. Let’s keep it simple: if you have a small backpack, it goes under the seat. If you have more than one carry-on, you may want to consider checking some luggage and not hording up all the overhead space.

If you aren’t flying, but instead taking the train, don’t be like Grandma Jospehine, who decided to block the aisle so she could still see her bags. Not only is this a fire hazard, but just because there is no space in the luggage rack, doesn’t mean you have the luxury to block people from exiting the compartment, or in my case, have the gaul to ask me to pick up these 40-50 pound bags onto the seat so other passengers can make way with their luggage. And for my fellow Americans, pack lightly, you don’t need twenty pairs of underwear for a five-day trip. Other countries have laundry and clothing stores, should you need something done.

6. Smoking and Vaping Consideration
Out of the other five, this is the least annoying and inconsiderate because I don’t have to sit next to the smoking section at the airports. With that said, should someone have to sit near the smoking areas, it would be wonderful if the smokers stood inside them. If it’s too crowded, wait your turn, because if the door is open, all that smoke has to go somewhere. The same is true with the vapers; you don’t have to do your best Triple H imitation with only your foot at the smoking threshold while your head is turned to the general population. And when you are done smoking, I’m just sharing for those with allergies, you don’t need to spray yourself down with cologne in front of any onlookers. Take care of that in the bathroom.

Final Thoughts: Becoming a Considerate Traveler
What do you think? Would this improve or worsen the traveling experience? Do we need to add more to this list?

#TravelEtiquette #BadTravelHabits #ConsiderateTraveler #PlaneTravelTips #TrainTravelTips #TravelRant #TravelTips #TravelGuide


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5 Introvert-Friendly Ideas for the 4th of July in New England

7/2/2025

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I suspect this will be a self-serving blog, to say the least, as I have my first and only weekend off during my summer school and camp assignment here in western New Hampshire, coinciding with the Fourth of July festivities.
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I'll be the first to admit that I used to be a big fan of this holiday, except that it seems like every person and their friend is now out and about on a lake or at the beach during this occasion. Even I smile when I remember those childhood memories of driving the dirt roads from Gilmanton Iron Works over to Alton Bay to watch the fireworks. The even greater excitement was the drive back in the utter darkness, hoping we wouldn't collide with a moose, deer, or fox. To that end, I'm a big fan of staying off the roads this holiday weekend. 

That's my first recommendation to any person who finds this blog. In fact, here's my list of things to do for every introvert on America's loudest holiday. 

1. Stay at home and read. - Yes, I know this one sounds pretty exciting, but hey, why not? This is the perfect time to unwind, grab your favorite summer read, and take it all in. You could go crazy and even pick up one of my books. Rumor has it that I have two new books out, including Brindisi and Me. 

2. Go for a drive on back roads, not only to avoid all the summer and holiday traffic from those fabulous out-of-state loafers and weekend warriors, but to take in the beauty of this great region.

3. Go to Walmart for the real celebration of the holiday. Come on, if you want to see what real America is and what we value, there is no better place to visit. Sure, you should go to a cemetery, a parade if you know of one, or a town celebration, but do one better and check that all off at Walmart. You can even grab a case of your favorite cold ones, whatever that might be. 

​4. If you insist on going to the beach to be like everyone else, whether that's in the Lakes Region or on the Seacoast, go in the early morning. When I write early, I mean before six. Avoid the crowds, walk the beach, especially at Rye Harbour, where only the locals venture. If you are even more ambitious, Long Sands in York is an incredible find with great views and atmosphere. My personal favorite might be Newcastle, or well, shhh, don't tell anyone, but Lubec, Maine. Yes, it's worth the drive, especially if you want to escape for this holiday weekend.

5. The most essential thing to do is to have some ice cream. I don't care where you get some, whether it's at Walmart, where you can buy a half gallon of Friendly's ice cream, or if you want to go old school and head to Memories in Kingston, New Hampshire, or any mom-and-pop ice cream vendor.  Come to think of it, I would say be reckless and do a mini golf tournament. Start in Alton Bay, play the home course, head to Weir's Beach for another round or two (avoid the indoor course at Fun Spot), and hit the Pirate's Cove one on the Meredith line after you play the somewhat challenging course across from what used to be Surf Coaster. I'm still mad about that place closing... Anyway, after you play all these roads, there are plenty of options for ice cream, soft serve, or hard. 

What do you think? Are these some good tips? Do you have any better ideas? 

​-JFK


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Holiday Travels: Spain, Lithuania, Estonia, Latvia, and England

1/12/2025

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Wow! Did I really miss a month? It looks that way to me. Then again, I think I had the best intentions to write something and for whatever reason forgot to make the time as I transitioned to a well deserved two week vacation over the holidays.

That's right, I went traveling and vlogging. Really, they are one in the same. I don't think I can ever just travel. My urge to have a camera out and film what I see and provide commentary is too strong to pass up. Truly, when I was in Estonia, I got this vicious next cramp. 

I had no intentions of filming that first day, especially because it hurt with the simple turn of my neck, let alone when I would sit back on the couch. Talk about spasms galore - that I'm still dealing with weeks later. And yet, despite this physical setback, I had the camera out just in case. 

Of course, I thought I would simply film the Christmas Market in Tallinn. That turned into the square and then the side streets and eventually a full twenty minute vlog. It's compulsive at this stage. 

With the physical limitations I still found a way forward and how a wonderful, restful vacation exploring five different countries. I started in Malaga, Spain and went onto Lithuania where I explored Kaunas for the first time and then took the train to Vilnius (one of my favorite cities in Europe). 

Having been to Vilnius on two different occasions, I was eager to get back and explore the familiar streets and all those beautiful churches. Estonia was next on deck with visits to the capital Tallinn and then to my adopted favorite town of Parnu. Neither city let me down and I had fun, new adventures in each. 

My favorite moment was being back on the couch, sipping tea at the Hotel Victoria. I love that place and the ambiance in their dining area. It's truly the cafe experience I dreamed about. 

After leaving Estonia we returned to Riga for two nights - which was necessary to right the wrong from two plus years ago when I shortened my trip to one night because the city had too much going on for me. This time I really got a feel for the city and explored some areas I had wanted to see for quite some time. 

Lithuania called for a second act, so both Vilnius and Kaunas got me for another round of filming. Even though I got drenched to the bone in Kaunas, I finally stumbled across an old Jewish cemetery which made my entire trip. 

I ended vacation with two days in Liverpool, England. It's funny how I have such a pull to that part of the country. Southport, my usual stomping ground is something like a 20 minute train ride to the north. On this trip, I stay in the Beatles' home city and enjoyed every moment. I'll be back for sure. 

With my holiday travels now complete, two new vlogs are being released weekly on Sundays and Thursdays until mid February. In the meantime, while I settle back into my teaching routines, I'm writing (yes, I really am - 20,000 words put down in six days) and will give you a further update before my next trip to Provence, France around Valentine's Day.

I hope all of you are off to a good start to your 2025. Here's to a great year ahead in all areas of your life.

Cheers,

JFK

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    Meet Mr. Jon​

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