Zalipie – Inside Poland’s Painted Village (Forever Poland Excerpt, Part II)

10/12/2025

In the spirit of my Poland travels, I've been working on a memoir that encompasses all of my trips while living in Poland. The working title of the book is Forever Poland. Right now, I'm about 50,000 words in. With the follow-up to Rusty Star ongoing, the second part of Forever Poland has to wait til January for the proper time to revisit the book and finish the remaining chapters.

I wanted to share more of the writing process, so here's part two of my trip to Zalipie, which I also documented in a YouTube video blog on Travel with Mr. Jon. I'll include that at the end for your viewing pleasure. In the meantime, grab some coffee or tea and indulge in this first draft of my road trip to Poland's happiest and prettiest Village.

The Final Drive to Poland's Happiest Village

Rain seemed to follow me everywhere in Poland, and I wasn’t shocked it was on the horizon, nor that it wanted to do so on my final day vlogging in the country. As we drove away and found ourselves on yet another side road, it truly felt like a one-way route; I couldn't help but consider the weather. The idea of a flooded path crossed my mind again, even though I didn’t think it would happen to us at that moment.

No, it made far more sense as several cars raced by us, with our vehicle hugging the side of the road, doing its best not to drive off the nonexistent curb, to have the weather come on the return drive. Only then could we embrace this road to its full effect and correctly figure out all the low points and where we might be stranded and fodder for the dziki.

I took a moment to glance out at the fields and the marsh we found ourselves driving across, wondering what village we would explore next. While I know I counted down till our next pull over, the clouds continued to darken. Even now, I have to think to myself what the worst weather day I dealt with was. There was torrential rain in Pzemsyl a few weeks earlier. That had to have been the worst, as I was thoroughly soaked and had only found refuge in the churches of all places. True story, I knew I couldn’t make it to the hotel fast enough, but this one church I had visited before and been locked out of was miraculously open on my return trip, eager for my eyes and for me to sit, to get a break from the nonstop rain. Come to think of it, every church in that area was unlocked. It was divine intervention when I grabbed my umbrella and spent the next hour going in and out of churches while Mother Nature did her best to ruin my filming experience.

We had no churches on this road to Zalipie, which was unpleasant to say the least. Thankfully, there were signs that we were close. Not even five minutes from the village, I spotted a shrine on the side of the road in front of a lovely modern family home. Dana pulled over to entertain my creative urge. I walked across the street and marveled at this dedication from 1903. I had no clue what the inscription said, and I should have asked for a proper translation, but what I did find that warmed my heart were the flowers on all four sides of the structure.

Freshly painted, in the last year for sure, these were the Zalipie standard, at the very least inspired. Hand-painted with lots of color and designs, I knew we weren’t far from our final destination. These flowers were distinct in pattern and drawn the same way that had been passed down for generations, from the 19th century to the present. I loved the lupine and the roses. Honestly, each side felt like a touch of spring and summer. These were the wild flowers you would pick for your lover or your mother to smell and enjoy at home.

Not far from this yard, we found ourselves at the wooden sign for Zalipie. If you weren’t looking for it, you would likely have driven right by on this busier main road, which made me think we took the scenic route. Had it not been for the metal fence barrier protecting the wooden structure from renegade bikes and perhaps an occasional car, we wouldn’t have spotted this side road entrance to the quiet village.

The distinct folk art was out in the open with more flowers in what I would best describe as floral wallpaper for those who couldn’t afford any. Stenciling, gone mad, would be even more appropriate.

Let's Paint Everything

One more kilometer of driving and it was clear we had arrived at Poland’s happiest village or perhaps most gaudy. I kid a little, but when I spotted the fire department and saw the etched flower pattern underneath the windows and over the doors, it was a bit much for me. Granted, it could have been the contrast in colors, with the orange, yellow, blue, and red, but it seemed like they were forcing the tradition onto a building that didn’t need an arrangement.

I’m sure Instagrammers would swoon over a fire department with hot red truck doors, a metal roof, and primarily a building in a greyish tone aside from the flowers and the red lining around the windows. I shrugged because I wanted to see the old village homes, one-room houses, or three-room dachas where you knew your grandparents were raised, and had to do everything without modern conveniences. That’s what I was looking for, not a bloody cement building that you tried to liven up with a stitch pattern.

Still, at the fire department, the flowers were everywhere. Who cares if I felt like I was in Kansas, among crops, fields, and only the occasional tree? Across the street, I saw what I believed was a church from the distinct wooden cross. The building itself was nothing to write home about, but all the windows had large bouquets, adorning the area, making you feel as though flowers were growing on the walls and through the cracks. I knew, though, from my limited research, the real show was the inside.

I decided at this point to keep walking and spotted a brand new cement one-level house farther down the street that required my attention. The perfect cobblestone driveway gave away the newness of this house, and more importantly, a weird vibe. Although these same flower designs were prevalent, they felt forced. Did I say I was disappointed? I’m not trying to be negative, but I'm being honest about the fact that I just assumed the only houses with flowers were the old wooden ones. To me, it seemed like whoever built this structure was like, “Oh, we better put some flowers around the windows. And instead of painting the outside white, as they would have done in the past, we’ll have sections that are white with colorful flowers. Let’s make sure these overhead spaces can be removed if necessary.”

Honestly, it felt weird. I was more excited to get away from this building and walk down the street to Dana and the car, wondering if she had spotted the traditional houses or if this was going to be some sham tour. As I was about to ask her if she had found out anything new or seen something better than what I had, the wheat crop became the real show.

Let’s talk about something cool. I'm in my early forties, and I have never stepped foot in a field full of barley. This was amazing and beautiful. Had the rain not begun to fall, I likely would have considered taking a run or at least a walk through this illustrious area, to take on the role of Maximus in Gladiator when he did the same at the end of Gladiator. Don’t get me wrong, this wasn’t Pienza, Italy, but the energy felt similar to me. Sure, the barley or wheat wasn’t that high either, but it was still in the same spirit.

A Real House Tour

My opinion of Zalipie began to shift at this moment. The modern build across the street, with its high-end metal gate and painted flower trim, did little to sway the fact that older homes on the horizon begged for attention. A house for sale on the right did nothing for me, but what appeared to be the original home in front made the folk art come alive. There was no denying the large dandelion bushes and the flower-filled bouquet on the backside of the building, with a complementary lower lining of brown daisies guarding the bottom.

I still wanted to see more, as we were on the upswing. This street appeared to have more potential. As the houses were farther apart, intermittently placed with fields in between them and the occasional grouping of trees, the jackpot was a short walk away. Dana was indispensable at this point.

Part of me was ready to simply film the outside of the best house we had found, one that could have been the selling part for any Instagrammer, but she was adamant that we go in through the gate and see about touring the house itself. I’ll be the first to say, I wouldn’t have done this without her. Even though this little hamlet is known to get tourists, as a New Englander, we don’t just walk into someone’s house without permission, let alone onto their property.

Dana was confident we could. As I stood across the street and waited for the sign, she went across the threshold and talked to the older woman, the caretaker of the house. Only after getting her blessing, did I resume filming and take in what was the pivotal moment of this village tour. To begin, this house from the outside was immaculate. This woman and her family, for the previous sixty years, had painstakingly cared for this home.

The grass was trimmed, flowers aligned the property, especially the rose bushes, which were cut back enough to allow each stem and blossom to flourish. It was a property that my grandmother would have been proud to see, and it brought me back to her rose bushes in Tucson, Arizona.

I tried to take it all in, even as I provided commentary on my camera. Even now, as I think back, I rewatch the clips and smile. The metal gate had sections painted with white flower designs, and the outside of the house was covered in bouquets perfectly hand-drawn in between freshly painted window frames. I preferred the colorful assortment of flowers serving as the trim between the outer wall and the foundation.

The fruit trees added to the ambiance, along with the hand-painted well, benches, and barn. Nothing was left untouched, even the pail that was used for the well, the flower pots, or the dog house. With each step, you were taken back in time, and got a glimpse of what these women did to brighten up family homes that were covered in soot.

Crossing the threshold into the house, this wasn’t some hoarder’s home, but a real place you would look forward to visiting and spending time in. More art filled the walls, with the familiar trim and etchings of free-hand sketched flowers. In the United States, we might use wallpaper or stenciling to get the perfect alignment and array of these floral designs; this was an art form in itself in Zalipie.

Our hostess explained how her great-grandmother had learned the craft and had passed it down through generations, with her now doing the same for her daughter. This wasn’t a gift for the men in the family to learn; they could only appreciate the tradition these women and others like them continued to share and imitate.

What I loved the most from being inside, aside from our hostess’s hospitality, was the brightness of the white walls mixed in with all the flowers. Truly, there was such warmth in each room, especially where the food was prepared. The old wooden stove that I was more familiar with seeing in rural Ukraine was here as well. Just as with the walls, every surface was painted. Where the wood would be placed to keep the fire going, so one could boil their water or cook their afternoon meal, a myriad of bouquets and colors livened up the space.

I wondered how long it took to paint these beauties and how often they would refresh. If these women were anything like my sister, who seems to repaint her walls on an annual basis, I would surmise that each season the walls were painted over in white, and then the flowers appeared shortly thereafter. They were too vibrant to have been there for a more extended period, but then again, I could be wrong.

One Pretty House

Author Jonathan Kuiper in Zalipie, Poland, pointing to a traditional wooden cottage decorated with hand-painted floral folk art, part of his Forever Poland memoir travels.

When the house tour ended and we were back on the roadside, I was relieved to get a proper glimpse into this area’s past and the traditions that had begun a hundred and fifty years earlier. Not far from this masterpiece, across the street, I found an even more delightful home. Between the white picket fence with our favorite flowers aligning every few posts and a handful of trees guarding the entrance, this one-level home with a red wooden thatched roof and white painted boards was what I hoped to encounter.

Between the bright blue window trim and matching door, the flowers were simply the icing on the cake. Placed between each window frame, there was nothing left uncovered, and that was okay with me. This was just folk beauty at its finest.

The best part was above the door frame. What I would label a little touch of heaven, placed over a simple red and purple design, was a horseshoe and dried up lavender, or perhaps mistletoe, mugwort, or some other bundle of dried herbs. I wasn’t sure as to the meaning of the placement, whether it was to ward off spirits or specific bugs, but I knew this was a proper folk tradition.

Looking at the entire scene before me, with the fields and the storm passing overhead, I could imagine myself in 19th-century Polish countryside, and for that I was thankful.

While my folk art palate was finally satisfied, I found myself crossing the street and down someone’s private road after I caught a glimpse of one of my favorite things to see in Poland. How I spotted this remains a mystery to me, especially as I walked for a couple of minutes past my new love, the wheat fields, and to the edge of someone’s house. There, on the edge, tucked behind the shrubs and a modern metal gate, stood a family shrine to Mary.

I was tempted to open the gate and read the inscription, but it was enough to see the cross and Mary within the glass enclosure. First, Boratyn and then in places like Przemysl, Krosno, and Skawina, this was another fitting reminder of how things are done in rural Poland. Outside the big cities, these artifacts and relics show the Roman Catholic traditions of this country.

Our journey to Zalipie concluded a few minutes later, but only after we found ourselves at the village center and their meeting house. With multiple maps, any visitor could easily see that Dana and I had only started the exploration of Poland’s happiest village. I was taken aback by the number of homes listed, and for that matter, the distances it would take to walk and explore each one. No, they weren’t all next to each other, not in the least.

And yet, that was okay. We got a taste of the traditions that the women of the area had been passing down through generations to brighten their homes and so that other locals would know who the eligible brides to be were. As I did a final walk-through of the visitor center and explored the various hallways, adorned with the same vibrant flowers I had seen in my new favorite home, I heard and saw little girls running in the hallway.

Laughter and giggles livened up the entire space, serving as a fitting tribute to their mothers, who met in the adjacent room, where they painted and stitched. While the wooden homes will eventually need to be replaced by more modern ones, it’s safe to say that the traditions will continue in this part of Poland, and for that, I’m grateful.

I, for one, took this last vlogging trip in stride. As with many of my adventures, I didn’t know what to expect, what was real, and what was going to be grossly exaggerated. What was nice to see was the lack of tourists gracing this area, and that it was more than just flowers that made the journey worthwhile. Truly, the high points for me, aside from the company, were the elephants and the cemetery. I enjoyed the flowers too, but come on, where else could I relieve Maximus’s final dream sequence? Yes, that, my friends, is what Poland is all about.