 Early morning in Tangier as I started the last chapter in Double Cross. An amazing thing happened today; relatively speaking, I finished Double Cross, the second book in my Russell Stokes series, A Stokes Case Novel. That’s right, time for a good old pat on the back while I hear the saws in the distance, hammering, and whatever else this blasted city of Tangier feels the need to throw at me during this writing escapade. Trust me, it was one. I started back in mid-September, intending to be done one way or another by November 6. This might seem like an arbitrary date, but I also occasionally play a travel vlogger, and frankly, I didn’t want to balance both when my fall and winter travels started. It’s one thing to work on a memoir like Forever Poland, as it’s a different type of writing, but fiction and travel vlogging are on different ends of my creative spectrum. The headspace it takes to deal with Russell and his life doesn’t translate at all to walking around city streets, exploring parks, churches, and cemeteries. I wish it did, but I need proper recovery after being in Russell’s world. Speaking of his world, the final numbers for Double Cross are 107,856 words for draft number one. We might lose a few thousand words once the edits are complete, or then again, we might gain a few. Every book I write is unique in that phase of the writing process. All told, though, this is my third-longest book written and the longest in ten years. Yes, ten years or is it eleven when I wrote Swimming with Angels and Going Home? Initially, I thought I might finish Russell’s second story up last weekend, but after a pivotal scene, the final act of the book took longer than expected. It wasn’t from a lack of trying to tie things up, just sometimes the characters lead you in different directions, and you have to stay aligned with the story that is being told. In true Tangier, Morocco fashion this last week has been anything but easy. I had comments due for end-of-quarter grades, which again taps a different mindset, and the city itself wanted to rear its noisiest, most unruly self in months, by giving me three straight days of music outside my apartment window. I could have managed with a jazzy ambiance, but the bloody drummers and screeching singer straight from my wedding hell story in Asilah showed up again. This time, we had the echo effect in full force, with fireworks for added flair, and two hours of performing, followed by a one-hour DJ interlude, a few stories below my apartment window. The glorified Thai Wok restaurant, which also poses as a pizza and shwarma destination, deemed it necessary to crank the bass after this show, forcing me to retreat to my back bedroom, close the doors and windows for a bit of sanity, all while I rushed to complete more of the story. I might have laughed it off, but the owners of the apartments above and below mine decided this was also the weekend and early week time to start their annual renovations. You try writing anything with intermittent hammering echoing through your writing cave. It’s not easy, and frankly, it's more draining than crafting the story itself. For whatever reason, any construction has to take place on Saturday from morning into the evening. There was no reprieve. And if it’s a holiday, don’t worry, there seems to be even more noise and construction to contend with. Even now, as I compose this piece, the bastard hammering away, on a Moroccan holiday no less, could give two hoots at the creative juices I’ve attempted to spew and share. Sunday was more of the same, but this time we replaced the wedding horror music with dance music that had no business being played at any time of day, let alone an outside venue. I practically prayed for more hammering to mask the sounds, but alas, the construction detail only showed for the morning hours before the restaurant had even opened. Fast forward to the last three days, and my internet connection has been spotty at best. Currently, it’s not even connecting because Orange has decided to perform maintenance again, just as they did in June, when I didn’t have working service for three weeks. If my memory serves, they claimed it was from the Spanish power outage, but news flash: is Morocco part of the same power grid, or do we just want to blame vacation time and shoddy service? I lean towards the service side of things, especially since the credit they gave me was never actually applied, and they simply collected payment as though nothing had happened. I would wave to the Orange sales center directly across the street to expedite things. Still, if it’s anything like June, the unhelpful sales clerk will direct me to call customer service, which refuses to put English speakers on the line because it hurts their customer service ratings. No joke. I wonder if they are up and running or if it’s just my building suffering through the dark void of no internet. That put a hiccup on looking up things to finish the novel, but again, we persevered. To celebrate this monumental accomplishment, it’s time for a proper rest, and I’ll get back to it early next week. In the meantime, if you haven’t checked out Rusty Star, the first book in this series, it’s out and waiting for your eyes only. Double Cross will join the fray in the spring. Till next update, have a good one. (True to form, the internet connection delayed this posting. We don’t want things to be to easy, do we?) 
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 Spain's southernmost point - Tarifa I told myself that my current project — the follow-up to Rusty Star — would be different. Unlike previous novels, I vowed not to grind away just because I had time or to fill my weekends with 5000-word goals, simply to get the project done faster. Honestly, that’s the most challenging part after getting into the characters, their motivations, and their stories. Often, it feels like I’m simply downloading dialogue and information, one big conduit at work. To that end, I have to watch myself so that I don’t overdo things and stretch myself thin. Currently, on 85000 words, there isn’t that much left for the story. I think it’s at least ten thousand more, maybe fifteen, but until Russell tells me everything is tied up in a bow, it could be a slow crawl to the end. Knowing this, I want to embrace these final days and weeks of the process. Am I drained? Absolutely, but not because of the writing, but from the emotional exchange that happens with certain scenes and situations characters find themselves in. A Writer’s Retreat Across the Water: Why Tarifa Was the Reset I NeededKnowing that the end of the book offers little to no reprieve, with continuous emotional hits on Russell, I took a retreat this past weekend to Tarifa, Spain. There were two vlogs I released in the spring on this little fishing haven and Kite Surfing retreat at Spain’s southernmost point that I won’t repeat, but will simply share below if you're interested in seeing more. Tarifa vs. Tangier: Two Shores, Two Very Different Energies Tarifa, Spain - A Kite Surfing Paradise Even though Tarifa is directly across the water —Tangier’s water twin, if you will — they couldn’t be more different. Tarifa is a small village, not even a city in my book, and a transfer point where people ferry across for the price of a Ryanair plane ticket, then take the shuttle bus onwards to Algeciras, and then to Marbella, Malaga, or Seville. Anyway, it’s an overnight stay at best, a pub crawl for the hardy, and for this guy, an energetic shift away from the heaviness that is Tangier. Don’t get me wrong, I’m sure Tangier’s energy is a blessing to many, but in my case, from the get-go, the area grinds at me more than any other place I have lived. It’s an uphill struggle daily, and like Sisyphus, I climb the mountain and once at the top, I can rest, until the next day, when everything repeats. But as the boulder rolls down the hill, my reprieve is writing, unless of course, I get out of Dodge for a quick recharge. This past weekend, Tarifa was the place to be. It’s just far enough away that the current and the water flow behave differently. Where you get monster waves and a consistent wind that Wind and Kite Surfers adore, and a picturesque beach that goes on for miles, Tangier has some sand that serves as a rest stop. The water haphazardly comes in for a mediocre hive five and a promise that it might be fun, someday. While there might be a one hump camel or two roaming the sand for a quick buck and Arabian horses for the same, on Tarifa’s beaches, the dogs that visit are on vacation with their owners, basking in the sun no less, and topless nudity appears to be unisex in nature. More importantly, for this guy, the sand and the water, with the wind on my face, and the ability to grab an adult beverage if the need comes, is just what I need to recenter and find the energy to write again, let alone return to a classroom full of energetic wilderbeasts . . . I mean, wonderful children. Sometimes, I get too wordy. Of course, I meant wonderful, loving, polite children. That’s how it’s been at every location I have taught the last twenty-plus years. Cherubim and angels, gumdrops, and fairies, right? Tarifa, though, is a wonderful place to visit. It’s easy enough to see everything in the old town within twenty minutes. If you want to do the tapa thing, go for it — there are ample food choices to keep your interest, or, in my case, a Lidl with this delicious pecking snack of salted pork and fresh bread that cries out for my attention. On my last trip, I pretended to be a grand hiker, eager to see if I could meander my way onto parts of the El Camino de Santiego. Still, alas, I ended up in a cow pasture, staring down the locals, and wondering why an hour-long hike along the cliffs, looking out onto the ocean, was therapy for my soul. Finding Balance Between Writing, Travel, and the Need to BreatheIt doesn’t matter how long I stay in Tarifa, simply breathing the fresh air, smelling the salt of the Atlantic Ocean current, and taking a moment to sit and rest is honestly the best recipe for any ailment I’m suffering from. This weekend was a welcome reprieve, and I imagine there will be a few more trips in the months to come. If you ever find yourself eager to get to Morocco, veer off and check out this fishing spot; you might find a place you didn’t realize you needed. Or when you leave Morocco, take the ferry across and instead of pushing onwards to some ridiculous city that lacks charm and spirit, spend a few hours in Tarifa to see how the locals live and what honest Spanish living is all about. Tarifa - Travel Vlogs from April 2025 The weight of the world for many of us during the upcoming winter season. Dare I say these words in the first sentence of today’s blog ― you know those words ― mean people suck. Maybe something more substantial is needed. Let’s not just say all people, like I’m classifying every single person in the world. No, I’ll be more specific this morning and focus solely on my fellow Americans, especially the Karens and all those entitled schmucks who think their opinion is the only one that matters. Granted, I will admit it’s a tough lead to start with, especially as I’m writing this with the intention that says my opinion is more valid and important than these sorry individuals. But then again, you’ve come to this forum for Jonathan Kuiper, so here’s an opinion you might want and a perspective that could be helpful in the days ahead. Especially, with the holidays fast approaching, tensions are stoked everywhere, and people continue to lose patience with one another. Everyone has an opinion, so you decide if it’s worth the money you paid for it. Did you see that joke I made? That’s taken right from Dave Ramsey’s mouth and his radio show. I got to give credit to the source on that one. I digress . . . When Everyone Has an Opinion (and None of Them Are Kind)Let’s dive into the topic at hand and what’s got me thinking this morning about people, toxicity, and how it emanates everywhere. Here in Morocco, it’s a different beast altogether, simply because I don’t understand the language or culture enough to state whether it exists at all. I imagine it does, but still, I work at an international school, so I’m around kids, adults, and the entire educational dynamic that is a microcosm for the same issues we will be diving into. Not wanting to focus on work for a moment, because who cares about that, let’s talk about My Shenandoah Love instead. I wrote this new adult romance in the summer of 2014. I remember it well because it was right after I grinded away at Going Home. The story was a perfect reprieve and counterbalance to Vincent and Christian, and their final story together as lead characters. For two weeks, I was consumed with Hannah’s story. Quick side note. I had just moved from my writing retreat for the summer, a studio apartment in Newmarket, New Hampshire, to an in-law loft studio in bucolic Gilmanton, New Hampshire. Surrounded by lakes, trees, and peace of mind, this was my stomping ground for the upcoming school year. I might have been there a day or two, waiting for my furniture to arrive, when I drove over to Johnson’s Dairy Bar in New Durham, where this beautiful woman with long, flowing, strawberry blonde hair captivated my attention. To this day, I have no clue how old she was, but I’m confident she was late teens or even twenty, a college student working her summer gig before returning to school in the fall. I remember getting my ice cream from this girl and then retreating to a picnic table to savor every lick and bite. By the time I was done with my dessert and driving home, Hannah Jones had been created. Knowing that I needed some conflict and a proper love triangle to be set up, I brainstormed salacious ideas. Why not make one conflict where Hannah and her mother were interested in the same married man? I know, scandalous, right? It gets better, let’s throw a minister into the mix who can’t keep his Johnson under control (see that another joke) while he’s with one woman, but trying to make his best move on young Hannah. This is the perfect combination for disaster, and someone’s getting hurt in the end. Just thinking about the storyline makes me smile, as the character dynamics were interesting and, honestly, truthful to how people really are. That’s where we shift to the topic of the day. After the book was written, I had my editors go through the manuscript and release the story. For some reason, most likely to get new readers, I posted the first chapter on a writing community website challenge. What Writing Taught Me About Toxic People Even animals get in on the online hate. Let me tell you this: most of my fellow writers are a-holes. Sorry, it’s true. At the very least, many are difficult people. Seriously, you get people of all walks on these sites. Many have an axe to grind and are simply on it to ruin another person’s day. They also believe that public forums are fair game to share uncensored opinions, right or wrong. We have those across the spectrum, with some who look for the positive, some who post irrational responses, and others who just want attention. I imagine there are other categories I’m leaving out, but you get the idea. Anyway, on this community site, I had the book up for three days, maybe less, when the comments started coming in. One reader (writer in disguise) wanted me to know that my northern Virginia location wasn’t authentic to the area. Newsflash, the story takes place in Front Royal, where I worked for five years. I’m pretty sure it’s authentic unless you live in a hole. Another reader said the entire exchange between mother and daughter was unrealistic. No mother would call their child names, let alone the words I used. While I would love to share those words with you, they weren’t nice ones, but having been around teens, young adults, and parents for years, let alone going through the life cycle myself, I can assure you that some families swear at each other. Then the real heavy hitters came in, those readers who wanted me to know that my story wasn’t politically correct. OMG, the horror of it all. What was I doing? There were other, more telling ways to create this tale of new adult woe, without using obscene vocabulary and having characters put down one another. Didn’t you know that no one ever puts anyone down? No one swears in this world? And a sixteen-year-old having a crush on the early twenties deputy, that would never happen. I took the posting down, annoyed with the feedback. There was no need to play the game, nor was I going to have a chance to win the contest that was being offered, simply because the comment police was out in force and had missed the fact that I’m a product of the 1980s and won’t cave to a climate where people in books are fake and not real to the reality we live in. The next time you see college students speaking Old English or with a Victorian vernacular, do let me know where the performance is being held. That being said, I gave up on putting my books or samples on writing community sites. If you are only going to read the first page and miss the entire purpose of the story, it’s all good from my perspective, but I don’t want or need to hear your opinion on the matter. For me, this shifted the narratives for book reviews, period. Amazon, at the time, was notorious for letting anyone post a review even if they clearly didn’t read the book, let alone purchase the work. I had one person for Running With Vince, write something like, “No one cares about you and your twin brother. This book sucks.” Then again, I had readers who were simply stupid. Did you read the book summary before opening it? If you knew it was in the first person, why did you keep reading? Because I couldn’t resist, look at these two reviews for Our Place by the Sea from Amazon. “A very short story. I dislike storytelling in the first person. I felt sad after finishing the story. I was bored reading it.” Or “I did not enjoy reading this, very self-absorbed, so I stopped reading. It is not about nature, as I had hoped.” Choosing Empathy in a World Full of Karens Perfect advice for us all in this Internet-Social Media Era I’m sharing this because everyone is honored for their opinion, simply by merit, but then again, it’s how we choose to respond to those opinions that matter. In writing, at this stage, ten plus years later, I don’t care either way. Whatever the story becomes is true to what I wanted readers to encounter. If you think it’s not realistic, fine, bless your heart. If you don’t like the story, for any reason, that’s fine too. I hear there are millions of other books, including AI ones, that will tickle your fancy.
My issue continues to be with people who make comments not on my books, but just online, period, social media, YouTube, who I know are hiding behind their screens and wouldn’t do it in person. If they did it in person, we all know it would be a different encounter completely. That’s not intended to be a threat; I’m simply sharing that many people think the screen is a place for them to spew out whatever they want, regardless of the consequences. By spewing out hate, for many of them, it’s created such a toxic climate that many of us don’t want to doom scroll, check the news, or do anything online, because it carries over into the real world. I certainly don’t need to see or want in my feed political commentary that in my younger days was not posted for the entire community to see. Words, at the end of the day, can be hurtful. It’s true, and we don’t know the reader’s perspective or their life story, so posting or commenting on something in a manner that creates divisiveness is irresponsible and creates a dark cloud over the entire matter. That’s the bottom line. At least with a book, if you don’t like it, you can put it down and read something that is more aligned with your values and thought patterns. We can’t necessarily do that when we are posting pictures or videos for friends and family, in an attempt to maintain connection (and sometimes for validation) only to get knocked down repeatedly by the trolls out there. In school, I see this daily. Kids are simply trying to find their way in this world and discover who they are, but their community and their families impact how this path will go. You can’t model hateful, entitled things and not expect the next generation, the one you are raising, to do the same. Again, books are books. It’s a fictional release, just like a horror movie is going to create a thrill or a fright; it’s not reality, and can be swapped out. But when people belittle others in a public place, a restaurant, because their food was too cold or not enough salt was added, or the item they purchased was missing a bloody screw, it’s not the person’s fault who is dealing with the brunt of the attack. Even if it was their fault, what right do you have to take it out on them? Does it really matter in the scheme of your life whether a cup of coffee was hot enough? Are you so important that if someone who is consumed with their family struggle cuts you off on the highway, that it means you need to do the same? At the end of the day, on the web or in person, people are doing their best to manage. We can either make it easier on each other or be the reason another person’s day shifts to a more miserable one. As we shift to Thanksgiving, Christmas, and the New Year, do you need to be part of the problem or part of the solution? That’s what you have to ask yourself. Is it really worth posting that comment or can you let it be? Just some food for thought, from somebody who cares. The Storm That Wouldn’t Quit  Storm Amy (what was left of Hurricane Humberto) was ready to play Influencers never seem to show both sides of the traveling coin. Let me be the first to share that if you ever decide to book a flight and travel to some faraway land, there’s always the potential for disruption. Take this past weekend as an example for this seasoned traveler ― Storm Amy, formerly Hurricane Hermbato, decided to slap the British Isles with a taste of unsightly and less-than-travel-friendly weather. Thankfully, I wasn’t heading to some big city that depended on the perfect filming environment. For that matter, I simply wanted to get to my Irish seaside retreat of Morecambe to watch the tidal change and feel the cooler English air. Even with my travel ambitions known, it was still a chore to navigate. Before I even left Morocco, the trains were already disrupted for my return on Monday. Rumor has it that, in addition to Amy’s wrath, it was already decided that this would be the maintenance weekend for the Northern Railway, which means headaches to begin with, and for those smaller venues, outright cancellations. Familiar with the routes and NW England, the potential disruptions meant little to me, except for how I would adapt and modify the path to reach this holiday hamlet. Now, before you go nuts and ask why I would choose NW England, the Lancaster area of all spots to visit, restrain yourself because this is the real U.K. We aren’t in London, where it’s more of a glorified United Nations of visitors with exorbitant prices and a lack of English charm that does little to nullify the hole in your wallet. No, in Lancashire, it’s comfortable, honest, and authentic. There’s history everywhere you go. You can see it on your walks, with every building, corner, and even the trees. The entire area sings of days gone by, and the people you meet are the salt of the Earth and beyond pleasant. Knowing this, I was prepared for the potential disruptions, whether it was the flight in or the messy Saturday when Amy would be at full force. Thankfully, the Ryanair flight was, surprise, surprise, on time. According to the pilots, they were the only flight to depart Manchester on time that day and, in this case, arrived back in England with a few minutes to spare. Frankly, I should have taken this as a sign of what was to come. If Ryanair is on time, it means the rest of the trip is going to be an adventure. That’s just how the traveling fairy manages these experiences. With a sound sleep at the Ibis, with no noise whatsoever, I slept like a champ, renewed and ready for the coming day. Everything seemed to be in order. The train for Lancaster was scheduled for 10:27, and there we were waiting on platform 3A, although I admit I was looking for 9 ¾. By the time I did a walk-around, looking for Harry and the rest of the clan, what do you know but on the screen, the train had disappeared completely, replaced by a different, later, 11:00 route. That’s a bit awkward, and there was no notice. I checked my Trainline app and saw the route had been canceled. No worries, right? We would simply take the next train in and continue on our merry way. If only it were that bloody easy. The masses of people whose trains had been canceled decided to join the trip, and before we knew it, the 11:00 became the all-comers ride into Manchester Piccadilly. Many of us were trying to head north, but alas, so were the next wave of passengers rushing to get on the train. Not even one step in, and every seat was taken, the carriage was standing room only, and bags blocked the aisle. I felt blessed to have a seat and secretly smiled, knowing Lancaster was only a few stops away. Wouldn’t you know it, the Piccadilly stop was fifteen minutes long because they continued to fight to get on the train, and figure out where to put their baggage in the process. The number of times we were all asked to back away from the doors was comical, especially since no conductors were inside to manage the chaos. Still, I sat comfortably, believing everything would be all right. The train pulled away from Piccadilly, and the screen updated, canceling the entire route past Preston. Not only were they canceling the trip, but those sorry schmucks who just wanted a ride to Manchester Oxbow were now forced to stay on the train to Bolton because we were overpacked with passengers. I agreed to skip the next stop en route to Bolton, as it is usually a madhouse, and I didn’t like the idea of stopping again to see how people would disembark and potentially allowing one or two the opportunity to join in the fun. Others lamented the ongoing changes, ignoring the fact that the rain continued to fall, the wind battered the area, and anyone familiar with Scotland’s geography would know that the second part of the route was probably underwater. A couple behind us were trying to figure out how to get to Blackpool. They started in Liverpool, were redirected to Manchester, and now any train to Blackpool via this direction has been canceled due to Amy’s visit. Why they hadn’t considered the bus back at Liverpool Lime Street Station remains a mystery to me, but maybe they didn’t know any better. Sheesh, I would have grabbed a train to Southport and figured it out from there. One family was trying to get to Scotland with five bags in tow and was busy using the train app to screen potential routes once we arrived in Preston. That’s when it hit me that all of us, sorry travelers, were going to Preston and would be fighting the proverbial good fight to get on the next train northbound. Finding Calm in Morecambe A well deserved tea after a long journey to Morecambe I, for one, was not too excited about this opportunity. There would be more waiting, more pushing, and for what reason? Knowing that the next train was an hour out, or the potential of a way out, I did what was easiest. Uber was my path of least resistance, and the best $45 spent the entire trip. Not only did I get a roadside view of the countryside, but there were no other people to contend with, no stupid noises to hear, and the thirty-minute drive was relaxing. I even got to see the iconic Pennine Tower. I wish it were before 1989, when that futuristic tower and restaurant were still open. Still, it was a glorious sight to see on the M6, just as we were preparing for the final miles into historic and bucolic Lancaster. Lancaster was ready for our arrival, with a light shower serving as a proper greeting, only to shift to a full-on downpour. Note to self: packing a poncho instead of an umbrella was a bad idea, especially after I poked several holes in my Moroccan gem of a product. Thankfully, Primark and Poundland were open for business, although again I shunned a new umbrella, figuring the worst had passed. A quaint and delicious bread bowl venison stew at Zizzi warmed me right up, and before I knew it, I was back on the way to the train station for the final trip to Morecambe. True to form, that train was canceled with the next one, forty minutes out. I didn’t feel like waiting any longer, so I used the reliable Uber app to secure a ride to my final destination. Did the rain let up over the remainder of the day? Not so much, but it didn’t matter. By the time I was greeted by the wonderful host of Broadwater Guest House, I knew I had come to the right place to settle my nerves and get the reprieve I desperately needed. Thanks to Amy, my room was upgraded due to cancellations, and I was offered an Irish Sea view and the most comfortable chair to write from. My twin brother Stephen, who passed twenty years ago, must have been working his magic. The room number was 7, his lucky number, and the seagull that kept flying over towards the window was none other than Steve, a local friend who loved his daily breakfast morsels. Before I knew it, I had a fleece wrapped around my legs, the howling wind and rain pounding on the glass, while I enjoyed a pot of tea and a Danish to boot. There would be no further adventures for me on this trip; instead, I would have the time and space to recharge and renew along a coastline that many tourists will never see or learn to appreciate. While the trip involved adjustments and going with the flow, it was all time well spent and a story I can add to the books. Influencers can take their posed shots and compile their top ten lists, but at the end of the day, they are missing out on sharing stories that truly matter — the grit and the authentic experiences that define who you really are.  National Novel Writing Month is fast approaching. The question remains whether I will officially participate this year. Those who know me already know the answer. Still, during the pandemic, I thought that joining the movement would prove beneficial not from a writing aspect, but from building book awareness and gaining potential readers. Indeed, not for altruistic reasons. I certainly wasn’t joining to meet other authors to talk about our respective stories. I was a participant for 20 days...
There’s a website where writers can sign up and post their progress as a motivational tool. If I remember correctly, you can even get awards or virtual stickers for each stage you complete. At first glance, it seemed like fun, as though posting my daily word count was a badge of honor. Truthfully, when I’m in a writing groove, 50,000 words in thirty days is a joke. That’s not meant to be a flex; it’s simply a fact that once the characters start talking and dictating the story, the writing becomes easy. Even now, in the midst of writing Double Cross, I’m around 52,000 words in 25 days. The word total should be much more, but I’ve purposely set a minimum goal each day and stuck with it, because I want to enjoy the writing process, not just grind through pages. Back to NaNoWriMo, there are plenty of blogs discussing whether to do it or not. Personally, I get a kick out of the bloggers who are telling you it’s a flawed challenge because who is to say 50,000 words is enough for a proper story, let alone a novel? How is it fair to have people write 1667 words a day for a month, when that takes time, depending on your ability to craft the words? The fact that people feel it’s necessary to judge whether it deserves merit or not is ridiculous. I would group this challenge as similar to what people who are setting out to train and complete a marathon face. Some do it for bragging rights. For others, it’s a life goal or something on their checklist that they want to accomplish. Then there are the real runners — yes, I went there — who have done enough marathoning that it’s no longer about the marathon, but the process. The training, the act of getting up, building a base, and completing something to fruition, is the real reason. Again, it’s not even about the marathon or setting a date to complete the race; it's about the daily runs that create the real value. With this perspective, NaNoWriMo can be viewed in the same vein. Storytellers want to craft, they want the toil. They don’t need a word count, a time frame, or anything else to share a proper story. The last time I checked, The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe had a word count of around 37,000 words. Would that not count for the challenge? The Great Gatsby is at 47,000 and Little Women (both parts) a meaty 190,000 words. Does it really matter when you write your story or how long it is? As for the challenge, if you are at that life stage that needs validation, have at it, but you might be missing the point of why you are writing and telling the story in the first place. I, for one, will just keep plugging away, seeing where Russell takes me. In the spirit of my Poland travels, I've been working on a memoir that encompasses all of my trips while living in Poland. The working title of the book is Forever Poland. Right now, I'm about 50,000 words in. With the follow-up to Rusty Star ongoing, the second part of Forever Poland has to wait til January for the proper time to revisit the book and finish the remaining chapters. I wanted to share more of the writing process, so here's part two of my trip to Zalipie, which I also documented in a YouTube video blog on Travel with Mr. Jon. I'll include that at the end for your viewing pleasure. In the meantime, grab some coffee or tea and indulge in this first draft of my road trip to Poland's happiest and prettiest Village. The Final Drive to Poland's Happiest VillageRain seemed to follow me everywhere in Poland, and I wasn’t shocked it was on the horizon, nor that it wanted to do so on my final day vlogging in the country. As we drove away and found ourselves on yet another side road, it truly felt like a one-way route; I couldn't help but consider the weather. The idea of a flooded path crossed my mind again, even though I didn’t think it would happen to us at that moment. No, it made far more sense as several cars raced by us, with our vehicle hugging the side of the road, doing its best not to drive off the nonexistent curb, to have the weather come on the return drive. Only then could we embrace this road to its full effect and correctly figure out all the low points and where we might be stranded and fodder for the dziki. I took a moment to glance out at the fields and the marsh we found ourselves driving across, wondering what village we would explore next. While I know I counted down till our next pull over, the clouds continued to darken. Even now, I have to think to myself what the worst weather day I dealt with was. There was torrential rain in Pzemsyl a few weeks earlier. That had to have been the worst, as I was thoroughly soaked and had only found refuge in the churches of all places. True story, I knew I couldn’t make it to the hotel fast enough, but this one church I had visited before and been locked out of was miraculously open on my return trip, eager for my eyes and for me to sit, to get a break from the nonstop rain. Come to think of it, every church in that area was unlocked. It was divine intervention when I grabbed my umbrella and spent the next hour going in and out of churches while Mother Nature did her best to ruin my filming experience. We had no churches on this road to Zalipie, which was unpleasant to say the least. Thankfully, there were signs that we were close. Not even five minutes from the village, I spotted a shrine on the side of the road in front of a lovely modern family home. Dana pulled over to entertain my creative urge. I walked across the street and marveled at this dedication from 1903. I had no clue what the inscription said, and I should have asked for a proper translation, but what I did find that warmed my heart were the flowers on all four sides of the structure. Freshly painted, in the last year for sure, these were the Zalipie standard, at the very least inspired. Hand-painted with lots of color and designs, I knew we weren’t far from our final destination. These flowers were distinct in pattern and drawn the same way that had been passed down for generations, from the 19th century to the present. I loved the lupine and the roses. Honestly, each side felt like a touch of spring and summer. These were the wild flowers you would pick for your lover or your mother to smell and enjoy at home. Not far from this yard, we found ourselves at the wooden sign for Zalipie. If you weren’t looking for it, you would likely have driven right by on this busier main road, which made me think we took the scenic route. Had it not been for the metal fence barrier protecting the wooden structure from renegade bikes and perhaps an occasional car, we wouldn’t have spotted this side road entrance to the quiet village. The distinct folk art was out in the open with more flowers in what I would best describe as floral wallpaper for those who couldn’t afford any. Stenciling, gone mad, would be even more appropriate. Let's Paint EverythingOne more kilometer of driving and it was clear we had arrived at Poland’s happiest village or perhaps most gaudy. I kid a little, but when I spotted the fire department and saw the etched flower pattern underneath the windows and over the doors, it was a bit much for me. Granted, it could have been the contrast in colors, with the orange, yellow, blue, and red, but it seemed like they were forcing the tradition onto a building that didn’t need an arrangement. I’m sure Instagrammers would swoon over a fire department with hot red truck doors, a metal roof, and primarily a building in a greyish tone aside from the flowers and the red lining around the windows. I shrugged because I wanted to see the old village homes, one-room houses, or three-room dachas where you knew your grandparents were raised, and had to do everything without modern conveniences. That’s what I was looking for, not a bloody cement building that you tried to liven up with a stitch pattern. Still, at the fire department, the flowers were everywhere. Who cares if I felt like I was in Kansas, among crops, fields, and only the occasional tree? Across the street, I saw what I believed was a church from the distinct wooden cross. The building itself was nothing to write home about, but all the windows had large bouquets, adorning the area, making you feel as though flowers were growing on the walls and through the cracks. I knew, though, from my limited research, the real show was the inside. I decided at this point to keep walking and spotted a brand new cement one-level house farther down the street that required my attention. The perfect cobblestone driveway gave away the newness of this house, and more importantly, a weird vibe. Although these same flower designs were prevalent, they felt forced. Did I say I was disappointed? I’m not trying to be negative, but I'm being honest about the fact that I just assumed the only houses with flowers were the old wooden ones. To me, it seemed like whoever built this structure was like, “Oh, we better put some flowers around the windows. And instead of painting the outside white, as they would have done in the past, we’ll have sections that are white with colorful flowers. Let’s make sure these overhead spaces can be removed if necessary.” Honestly, it felt weird. I was more excited to get away from this building and walk down the street to Dana and the car, wondering if she had spotted the traditional houses or if this was going to be some sham tour. As I was about to ask her if she had found out anything new or seen something better than what I had, the wheat crop became the real show. Let’s talk about something cool. I'm in my early forties, and I have never stepped foot in a field full of barley. This was amazing and beautiful. Had the rain not begun to fall, I likely would have considered taking a run or at least a walk through this illustrious area, to take on the role of Maximus in Gladiator when he did the same at the end of Gladiator. Don’t get me wrong, this wasn’t Pienza, Italy, but the energy felt similar to me. Sure, the barley or wheat wasn’t that high either, but it was still in the same spirit. A Real House TourMy opinion of Zalipie began to shift at this moment. The modern build across the street, with its high-end metal gate and painted flower trim, did little to sway the fact that older homes on the horizon begged for attention. A house for sale on the right did nothing for me, but what appeared to be the original home in front made the folk art come alive. There was no denying the large dandelion bushes and the flower-filled bouquet on the backside of the building, with a complementary lower lining of brown daisies guarding the bottom. I still wanted to see more, as we were on the upswing. This street appeared to have more potential. As the houses were farther apart, intermittently placed with fields in between them and the occasional grouping of trees, the jackpot was a short walk away. Dana was indispensable at this point. Part of me was ready to simply film the outside of the best house we had found, one that could have been the selling part for any Instagrammer, but she was adamant that we go in through the gate and see about touring the house itself. I’ll be the first to say, I wouldn’t have done this without her. Even though this little hamlet is known to get tourists, as a New Englander, we don’t just walk into someone’s house without permission, let alone onto their property. Dana was confident we could. As I stood across the street and waited for the sign, she went across the threshold and talked to the older woman, the caretaker of the house. Only after getting her blessing, did I resume filming and take in what was the pivotal moment of this village tour. To begin, this house from the outside was immaculate. This woman and her family, for the previous sixty years, had painstakingly cared for this home. The grass was trimmed, flowers aligned the property, especially the rose bushes, which were cut back enough to allow each stem and blossom to flourish. It was a property that my grandmother would have been proud to see, and it brought me back to her rose bushes in Tucson, Arizona. I tried to take it all in, even as I provided commentary on my camera. Even now, as I think back, I rewatch the clips and smile. The metal gate had sections painted with white flower designs, and the outside of the house was covered in bouquets perfectly hand-drawn in between freshly painted window frames. I preferred the colorful assortment of flowers serving as the trim between the outer wall and the foundation. The fruit trees added to the ambiance, along with the hand-painted well, benches, and barn. Nothing was left untouched, even the pail that was used for the well, the flower pots, or the dog house. With each step, you were taken back in time, and got a glimpse of what these women did to brighten up family homes that were covered in soot. Crossing the threshold into the house, this wasn’t some hoarder’s home, but a real place you would look forward to visiting and spending time in. More art filled the walls, with the familiar trim and etchings of free-hand sketched flowers. In the United States, we might use wallpaper or stenciling to get the perfect alignment and array of these floral designs; this was an art form in itself in Zalipie. Our hostess explained how her great-grandmother had learned the craft and had passed it down through generations, with her now doing the same for her daughter. This wasn’t a gift for the men in the family to learn; they could only appreciate the tradition these women and others like them continued to share and imitate. What I loved the most from being inside, aside from our hostess’s hospitality, was the brightness of the white walls mixed in with all the flowers. Truly, there was such warmth in each room, especially where the food was prepared. The old wooden stove that I was more familiar with seeing in rural Ukraine was here as well. Just as with the walls, every surface was painted. Where the wood would be placed to keep the fire going, so one could boil their water or cook their afternoon meal, a myriad of bouquets and colors livened up the space. I wondered how long it took to paint these beauties and how often they would refresh. If these women were anything like my sister, who seems to repaint her walls on an annual basis, I would surmise that each season the walls were painted over in white, and then the flowers appeared shortly thereafter. They were too vibrant to have been there for a more extended period, but then again, I could be wrong. One Pretty House When the house tour ended and we were back on the roadside, I was relieved to get a proper glimpse into this area’s past and the traditions that had begun a hundred and fifty years earlier. Not far from this masterpiece, across the street, I found an even more delightful home. Between the white picket fence with our favorite flowers aligning every few posts and a handful of trees guarding the entrance, this one-level home with a red wooden thatched roof and white painted boards was what I hoped to encounter. Between the bright blue window trim and matching door, the flowers were simply the icing on the cake. Placed between each window frame, there was nothing left uncovered, and that was okay with me. This was just folk beauty at its finest. The best part was above the door frame. What I would label a little touch of heaven, placed over a simple red and purple design, was a horseshoe and dried up lavender, or perhaps mistletoe, mugwort, or some other bundle of dried herbs. I wasn’t sure as to the meaning of the placement, whether it was to ward off spirits or specific bugs, but I knew this was a proper folk tradition. Looking at the entire scene before me, with the fields and the storm passing overhead, I could imagine myself in 19th-century Polish countryside, and for that I was thankful. While my folk art palate was finally satisfied, I found myself crossing the street and down someone’s private road after I caught a glimpse of one of my favorite things to see in Poland. How I spotted this remains a mystery to me, especially as I walked for a couple of minutes past my new love, the wheat fields, and to the edge of someone’s house. There, on the edge, tucked behind the shrubs and a modern metal gate, stood a family shrine to Mary. I was tempted to open the gate and read the inscription, but it was enough to see the cross and Mary within the glass enclosure. First, Boratyn and then in places like Przemysl, Krosno, and Skawina, this was another fitting reminder of how things are done in rural Poland. Outside the big cities, these artifacts and relics show the Roman Catholic traditions of this country. Our journey to Zalipie concluded a few minutes later, but only after we found ourselves at the village center and their meeting house. With multiple maps, any visitor could easily see that Dana and I had only started the exploration of Poland’s happiest village. I was taken aback by the number of homes listed, and for that matter, the distances it would take to walk and explore each one. No, they weren’t all next to each other, not in the least. And yet, that was okay. We got a taste of the traditions that the women of the area had been passing down through generations to brighten their homes and so that other locals would know who the eligible brides to be were. As I did a final walk-through of the visitor center and explored the various hallways, adorned with the same vibrant flowers I had seen in my new favorite home, I heard and saw little girls running in the hallway. Laughter and giggles livened up the entire space, serving as a fitting tribute to their mothers, who met in the adjacent room, where they painted and stitched. While the wooden homes will eventually need to be replaced by more modern ones, it’s safe to say that the traditions will continue in this part of Poland, and for that, I’m grateful. I, for one, took this last vlogging trip in stride. As with many of my adventures, I didn’t know what to expect, what was real, and what was going to be grossly exaggerated. What was nice to see was the lack of tourists gracing this area, and that it was more than just flowers that made the journey worthwhile. Truly, the high points for me, aside from the company, were the elephants and the cemetery. I enjoyed the flowers too, but come on, where else could I relieve Maximus’s final dream sequence? Yes, that, my friends, is what Poland is all about. In the spirit of my Poland travels, I've been working on a memoir that encompasses all of my trips while living in Poland. The working title of the book is Forever Poland. Right now, I'm about 50,000 words in. With the follow-up to Rusty Star ongoing the second part of Forever Poland has to wait til January for the proper time to revisit the book and finish the remaining chapters. I wanted to share more of the writing process, so here's part one of my trip to Zalipie, which I also documented in a YouTube video blog on Travel with Mr. Jon. I'll include that at the end for your viewing pleasure. In the meantime, grab some coffee or tea and indulge in this first draft of my road trip to Poland's happiest and prettiest Village. Zalipie - The Drive InMy time in Poland was coming to an abrupt end, faster than I wished, but it was necessary because family obligations back in the United States demanded my attention. Still, I wanted to get out and see more of the countryside in those final days. Two weeks earlier, I had my return trip to Przemysl, and in my final weekend, I jetted up to Warsaw to pay my respects. The question remained, where else could I go close enough to Kraków and a manageable day trip? Remembering the incessant Instagram posts on what to do in Poland and several travel blogs listing the top ten things to see or visit in southern Poland, the quintessential Polish village kept being pushed to the forefront. Whispers became downright shouting about Zalipie, the place behind the linden trees. My coworkers mentioned how it was a must, and all I can ask to this day is whether they went to the place. Truly, that’s what I took after this midday trip with a friend. More on that in a bit. Note to self that sometimes the journey is better than the destination, and this trip was that for me. Before we try to put the horse back in the barn, let’s start from the beginning. When Dana asked if we could get together the day before I flew back to the United States, I half-mentioned that I had considered looking into one more travel vlog. Already, my travel partner for some other day trips from Nowa Huta, Poland’s Desert, and to a forest near Skawina, Dana was game for one more run. We likely could have found another spot in Kraków to take in, as there is so much to see and places many tourists overlook. And yet, I didn’t see the point in trying to top the Elvis Presley Monument, where I got to rub his head and wonder which superfan created this masterpiece. No, it was far easier to settle on Zalipie, the folk town where women painted flowers on all the homes and structures, passed down from generation to generation to beautify their gloomy, dark wooden homes, dealing with the grime of coal and other burning substances. Oh yeah, this seemed like a promising idea, especially since Dana’s kids weren't up for the trip, which made me wonder if it wasn’t as cool as social media had made it out to be. We had no idea what we were in for, except for what Google Maps showed by clicking on the occasional image. Having traveled many times this school year, I didn’t want to ruin the trip by seeing too much in advance. Why bother going if we can simply look at a photograph? There would be no further inquiries. I put further research aside. Dana input the village name into her GPS, and we set out mid-morning for a route none of us had previously experienced. Romanian by blood, Dana had done her fair share of exploring with her family. She had taken her kids to the desert, which prompted me to visit, although I questioned whether they enjoyed the location, especially since it was underwhelming to me. Maybe it’s because we are grown adults, and it just takes more to get one excited about different things. I hoped this would prove a better trip, one where both of us found the area intriguing and worth the gas mileage. We never took train trips together; it was always by car. I was already accustomed to Dana’s lead foot, which would make her a good fit with drivers in Maine or New Hampshire, especially on the highways. As we merged onto A4 and drove towards Tarnów, I found it fun to see the trains in the distance. On several trips, I had been on those trains, yet on this one, we were racing past the approaching trains as they made their final approach to the city. Our route was going to be straightforward with the highway as our focal point until we got to the outskirts of Tarnów. We were either in the vicinity or passing several areas I had penciled in on potential trips, and they had all fallen through for a litany of reasons. Wieliczka was the first place I saw on Rick Steeves's guide to the area. Known for the 13th-century salt mine, it was part tourist trap and part amazing. To this day, I wish I had ventured over via the train, the same one that goes back and forth to the airport on the hour, to simply explore the chapel of St. Kinga, which is made entirely of salt. I know pictures don’t do it justice, and yet I never found the time to visit. I believe it was the number of tourists I feared would frequent the same spot, and I didn’t see the point in paying an entrance fee for Mass. I recall reading that attending Mass only was free of charge, but I could never confirm. To that end, as we drove past the signs for that area, I was remiss about a missed opportunity. I might have dwelt longer on this until I saw the sign for Bochnia. Ironic as it may be, this is home to another mine, just not as popular as the one in Kraków. When I looked for alternatives to Wieliczka, this small city came up in my search. Unlike the latter, there is a water crossing within the mine. Instead of walking everywhere, this mine had an actual boat ride, perhaps the only one in Poland or Europe. I didn’t care enough to dig too deep on this one, but it was an alternative that passed the preliminary travel options on a future trip to Tarnów. Here we were driving by, but Dana had no intention of stopping, nor was I inclined to ask her to do so. Our mission today was to find Poland’s happiest village and hopefully some content that made sense. I lost track of the time, so when we turned off to Wierzchosławice and away from Tarnów, we were at the mercy of the side roads and heading north. What I do remember were fields, lots of them, and the occasional town. Nothing stood out until we were on 975 and driving through Radlow. I remember as if it were yesterday, even though I failed to catch it on camera. This is the fun part of the story because this trip was one that remains on my channel, and so I had an opportunity to watch and remember what we found and what made the cut. Truth be told, the camera was put away the entire drive up until this juncture. Who wants to look at the highway, signs, and in this case, fields? I told Dana to slow down as I saw this beautiful brick church off in the distance. The bridge we were on was the high point for this valley, with you guessed it, more fields, but the church, which seemed interesting enough that I considered asking her to veer towards its direction, until I didn’t. I might have said something had the GPS taken us in that vicinity, but instead, it had us taking the right between two vast cornfields. Only in June, the corn was growing, but not yet the high stalks we come to appreciate in the late summer season, let alone before they are ready to be plucked and harvested. The Cornfields - the Real ShowIn our favour, I looked out and spotted a cemetery to our immediate left. A tractor-trailer sped by, and I had to call out for Dana to stop. She knows of my obsession with cemeteries and had to make a phone call, so the timing was ideal, as is often the case with many of my vlogging sessions. I will share that this wasn’t some quiet road either. We weren’t the only vehicle driving towards Zabno. There wasn’t even a proper pull-off. This was the countryside, and had it not been for the cemetery and the poorly maintained grass, Dana would have had to park off kilter on the edge of the road. I got out of the car and walked towards this beauty of a memorial. I had to laugh because, truly, corn was planted around every part of this thing. The fact that there was a path of sorts seemed weird, but then again, this cemetery in the middle of a cornfield and high-voltage power lines was equally amusing. The obelisk with the distinct cross towered over the crops, a full eleven meters high, and made this resting place for World War I soldiers even more fitting. A sign indicated that this was from late 1914 and early 1915, and soldiers from multiple sides were stationed in different sections of this relatively small outdoor shrine. A lone poppy grew proudly near the remains of some British soldiers. I spotted the German and Russian markers before climbing over the rock wall to take another look at the corn that enwrapped itself in this resting place for these soldiers. Unlike cemeteries I had traveled to and explored over the past year in Poland, this one was different. The energy alone was unique, and these graves made me reflect on war, and how these soldiers were put here out of convenience, much like many others in this part of the countryside. I wasn’t aware until after the fact, how many WWI graves are littered across these small towns, villages, and cities. I saw larger, more significant resting spots for these armies in places like Przemysl and Giżycko, but here was fitting for men at war who traveled to a foreign land, and this was what they had time for. It wasn’t glorious, nor did these men get much recognition for their efforts, and yet this proved they weren’t forgotten either. Truly, as I walked back to the road and spotted another plot across the street, nestled between a grove of trees with a cornfield as its perimeter, this felt fitting and peaceful. The grave marker told me everything I needed to know, with something like two hundred and ten Russian soldiers placed in a mass grave. This walk was a longer one, set farther back off the road, and yet more inviting. Four crosses took my breath away, and yet I focused on the fact that we had two small cemeteries with all this fertile land around them. I used the analogy on camera about how, even in death, there was a sense of renewal and rebirth that tied everything together. As I circled the wall, with only one entrance, I spotted more information about the five mass graves and three individual ones. Indeed, learning more about this place was informative, but the crosses over the mass grave were not what I expected. They spoke to me at some level. The trees surrounding the wall seemed like the rear guard, standing watch over these brave men who lost their lives. More than one hundred years after the fact, I could get a sense of the toil, the struggle, and perhaps even, as a veteran, I could relate to this loss of innocence and what these soldiers experienced, and those who served with them. The place was surreal and not an expected layover or wayward point. And yet, finding these cemeteries on the way to Poland’s happiest village seemed ironic and fitting at the same time. Dana missed all the fun, but then again, I don’t think she realized this might be the high point of our adventure. We might have been on the high ground, because for the next few minutes we continued to drive in this low-level area that I swore was more of a flood plain, or a potential one. I even imagined the river overflowing and then feeding and nourishing these fields to produce the corn that would make even Kansas proud. My New Favorite Team Zalipie was still several minutes out, and I couldn’t tell either way what, if anything, we would find. Flashbacks to our trip to the desert continued to linger, not because the desert was underwhelming, but from the anticipation we had near the Eagle’s Nest and the many side roads we found ourselves swinging onto, looking for the remnants of Poland’s castles and keeps. We can leave out the variety of those ruins and being charged for a relic that was a waste of time for a series of stones that barely resembled any structure, and yet, if we hadn’t gone in that direction, we would have missed that town with the old manor that begged for more attention. I was banking on the same win, if you will, as we drove along the outskirts of Zabno. The first thing of notice was the stadium adjacent to a few streets of homes. This mammoth structure looked out of place among the low-lying plains that we drove through to reach the parking lot. We didn’t even stop for the football component, because as I shared freely in my vlog, I’m not the biggest fan. Granted, this has changed slightly, in that now I can boast of going to a Premier League match in the UK, but I wouldn’t say I’m more than a cursory viewer who simply checks scores and now wants to see what Jamie Vardy is up to. As for Polish football, I can tell you next to nothing save that many of the cities I explored have some decent-sized stadiums, especially Opole and Rybnik, which was a bit surprising considering they aren’t huge cities. Out here in the sticks, we found ourselves parked out front of the 4500+ seat Bruk-Bet Termalica Nieciecza home field, which looked cool among the fields and the ominous storm clouds that decided to visit us. I got out of the car quicker than I should, considering the subject matter, but where else do you find giant elephants roaming? That’s right, I was suckered in at the front gates by not one, but two elephants that demanded a photo op. I was surprised at my eagerness, but then again, these life-size cuties were worth the few-minute detour. The finishing on both of them was quite life-like between the soulful eyes and the tusks. I believed I took to them so much that I used it as my thumbnail for multiple media sites. People were expecting painted flowers, but I gave them elephants. (No wonder my channel has never taken off. I digress for a moment.) I thought that would be the end of it and a quick return to the car, but no, I had to walk to the entrance to get a glimpse of the stadium. Part of me wanted to be able to go in and film these hallowed grounds, but alas, I kept walking the perimeter of the stadium only to walk away empty-handed. When I thought the exploring was over, in the back fields, the best part of this place came into full view. Don’t get me wrong, I spotted several homes with a gluttony of fresh flowers in full bloom, certainly a preview of what was about to come, but no a short walk from a portable toilet, I found more elephants. These elephants were glorious. In the center of the cul-de-sac, with a few homes in the background, a large field, a cemetery, and those storm clouds that I knew were going to wreak havoc shortly thereafter, the family of three was beyond adorable. I don’t know whether it was the green astroturf skin, although maybe it was real grass, but between the dad with his tusks, the mom, and the baby that I got to pet, these elephants were a sight to behold. Talk about a family to have in your front yard. If I’m being entirely honest, I was a bit jealous of the two kids on their bicycles circling these fine animals as they turned for some midday cemetery riding. After paying my respects to the trio that I wished were back at my school, guarding the entrance, as opposed to looking like they were getting ready to partake in a football game, I took one final look at the storm clouds. It wasn’t a matter of if the early summer thunderstorm would come, but more of a when. The darker the clouds became, the sooner it would be. The question remained as I got back in the car, as to whether we would skirt by the edge of the storm or get walloped. One would be preferred over the other as we hadn’t even gotten to the village yet, and filmed what was supposed to be the apex of this travel vlog. Still, it was beyond our control, and it’s not like I hadn’t trekked across this country in good and bad conditions. Heck, in Warsaw, I got stuck in a bloody hailstorm while finishing up a vlog en route to a date that I wish had never happened. I take that back; the Indian restaurant was worth trying, but the remaining hours of aimless walking and sitting in a café were not on my to-do list with a person I didn’t truly resonate with. Rain seemed to follow me everywhere in Poland, and I wasn’t shocked it was on the horizon, nor that it wanted to do so on my final day vlogging in the country. As we drove away and found ourselves on yet another side road, it truly felt like a one-way route; I couldn't help but consider the weather. The idea of a flooded path crossed my mind again, even though I didn’t think it would happen to us at that moment. Surviving Your First Year Teaching Abroad A native welcoming me to my apartment in Brindisi You decided to take the plunge to become an international school teacher. You looked for a position and got one. More importantly, you made it through the paperwork process and likely have packed your bags and are now on your way to this exciting new opportunity. There’s a lot to take in, process, and experience, but it’s also time to take a deep breath and make yourself at home. That’s the key to all of this and the focus for this last edition of this International School Teacher series. Flexibility and Resilience on ArrivalYou land in your new city, and then what happens? For me, it was a blur those first few days. I had an overnight flight from the States, followed by an extended layover, and it wasn’t until mid-afternoon, after a full twenty-four hours of traveling, that I finally walked out of customs with my bags in tow. There were people there to greet me, but that’s not always the case. At one school, there was a manager of pickups at the airport. Literally, this guy just stood at the arrivals area and then called specific taxis for each staff member who was arriving. I wasn’t a big fan of this approach, simply because I expected my principal to welcome me, let alone the director, as had been done the first time for me in Brindisi. You have to prepare for anything upon arrival. Your phone might not work unless you've purchased an eSIM, such as with Sailey or another provider, to tide you over data-wise until someone shows you how to buy a local data and phone plan. Then again, there are no guarantees on that end. Only one of my three stops had a plan ready for me upon arrival. One said we would go the next day or the day after, and the third was worthless. There was no initiative on that person’s part, so I found myself going to the mall and activating a SIM card I had bought online without any assistance. You will get the full range of assistance, and frankly, there’s no rhyme or reason as to whether you will have the pampered effect, let you figure out everything entirely on your own, or somewhere in between. Housing: Finding Your Sanctuary AbroadI was spoiled going to Italy. I simply moved into the old director’s apartment. They picked me up, showed me around, and gave me the set of keys with a night’s worth of food and a cold beverage to welcome me to the city. Poland, on the other hand, was not as functional. From the outset, I found the apartment independently and contacted the broker without any assistance. I was also the first new staff member to get an apartment at a solid price. The drawback was that when I arrived, I was on my own, because for whatever reason, my local contact at the school didn’t show up at the apartment at the agreed-upon time. When they did arrive, they simply sat outside in their car, preoccupied with other thoughts and duties. I had already signed the contract by the time they had decided to ring the doorbell. I can frame it that way, because it's precisely what happened. The taxi dropped me off in front of the apartment. I had already sent a text to my realtor, who, surprise, surprise, went on vacation and had his partner cover the listing. That guy was late, so there was no translation help available. Instead, I met my landlord, an elderly man, alone without assistance, and for the first twenty minutes, we didn’t even click on using Google Translate. It was more a hodgepodge of Italian, a few Russian words, Polish, and lots of hand signals. I don’t tell you this to frighten you, but if you’re going overseas, you have to be flexible. You also need to be able to set boundaries for yourself and be willing to take a stand on things if they don’t feel right and you don’t think it’s going to work for your energy. That might sound like a sidebar, but it’s not. Here in Morocco, I was placed in an apartment in the middle of the city, a short walk from school, but on the loudest street corner in the entire area. Sure, it met my school’s housing allowance, but at what cost? A crossroads for traffic, with people waiting for rides and buses out front, the apartment's aesthetic charms meant nothing when I saw the single-pane, cracked windows, the broken wall sockets, and my favorite, a jazz club underneath my bedroom. However, I ended up there; this wasn’t functional for the school year. As a teacher, I need to rest and recover, and there was no way this apartment was going to allow me to do so. I’m also a planner, and I had enough money aside to navigate a quick move. Literally, the day before school started, I had already moved into a new apartment with a water view, and thankfully, it had double-pane windows that provided enough noise control to keep me sane. Sure, it’s way over budget, but you need to decide what’s important to you when you are on this overseas journey. I’ve done this rodeo before, and I know how important it is to recharge, rest, and get some downtime. If your place is stressing you out, then you’re not going to last the school year and will likely pull a runner. The number one most important thing is finding the right place to stay. You don’t want to be so far away from work that it becomes a commuting nightmare, even if the school provides transportation. I had teachers who commuted one hour each way, and let me tell you that eats away at your free time. This year, I have a twenty-minute walk, which is terrific. Don’t compromise on your housing, as it will be your sanctuary, your home, and your spot when school is not in session. I can’t stress that enough. Building Daily Life and Community This bear is sporting some Italian clothing... what a fashionista Expect the unexpected and for things not to make sense, especially with the local postal service. In Italy, I had a friend mail a postcard from Brindisi, and it took four or five months to arrive. No joke. We didn’t even bother using the mail because even our utility bills would show up a month or two after the payment date. Poland was a bit better and comical, but if you had a package on the way and weren’t at the apartment, they weren’t leaving it at the door. No, you would need to visit the local office the next day and present an ID for pickup. Morocco, let’s just say my mom was going to send me my pillow, and that was going to be $400.00, so yeah, that’s a firm no-go. While the postal service is unreliable, other delivery methods work just fine, and even better than at home. Jumia isn’t too shabby in Morocco, and I never had an issue with Amazon Italia shipping stuff to my school, or any shipping in Poland to those wonderful Paczkomaty. Grocery shopping, the way we feed ourselves, as long as you find your local stores, you’ll be good to go. Whether that meant an outside market or a physical grocery store, I never had any issues finding places within a short walking distance that were functional and had everything I would want for sustenance. Then again, I also don’t go out of my way to buy all Western, American-brand foods. If you only want those, they will be priced at a premium; then, what’s the purpose of leaving in the first place? Be prepared not to see your favorite brand, but expect to discover some equally yummy alternatives. Likewise, understand that you are likely in a location where walking is how people get around. Goodbye car culture and hello exploring by foot, and a taxi if you want the added price. I have to say this because it’s a shocker for some. You have to plan your trips accordingly, because how many bags of groceries can you comfortably carry back from the grocery store? Did that thought even cross your mind? Socializing is a big topic of the day and is essential to many. Over the years, most schools have established a chat group that shares activities and events, enabling people to meet up and engage in activities together on weekends and in the evenings. You get out whatever you put into it. Some people want to be part of a built-in social group with fellow educators who share a similar living situation. In contrast, others will put themselves out there and initiate connections with the local community. Either one works well, but ultimately, your actions will determine this aspect of your living experience. No one is coming to your door to ask you to do things. You will have to meet people halfway at the very least and make an effort. Embracing Travel, Health, and the Long School Year Regardless on that aspect of life, expect some periods of loneliness and homesickness. A school year is an annual cycle as are our holidays that many of us so often cherish with loved ones back at home. If you can’t get home for the season, find ways to use technology to stay connected. Just be happy this is in the 21st century. Even twenty years ago, video calls were just getting started. Even now, I remember being in Brindisi and having to schedule Skype calls for our weekly check-ins. Now that WhatsApp is more common, along with FaceTime, Zoom, etc., it’s just a matter of syncing up times and connecting. Likewise, advances in technology have also made daily living significantly easier. If I don't know a word, I can use Google Translate to communicate with people around me. This is far better than sign language and a word-by-word translation with a pocket dictionary. Yes, that was me in Italy. As you embrace the seasons and holidays in your new country, I want to stress the importance of getting out of your new home and traveling. That doesn’t mean you have to travel outside the country, although many of us do, as it’s cheaper to explore other places once out of the United States, with substantially shorter flights. Seriously, see what the different regions of your new home base have to offer. When I lived in Poland, it was extreme, but I was visiting a new city or two every month. Something was exciting about hopping on the train and learning more about my host country’s history, culture, and the people. I wanted to do the opposite of what I did in Italy, which was take a few select local trips and a few international trips while paying off my debts. Whatever you decide to do, take advantage of your proximity, because you don’t know whether after your job ends, you’ll return to this area again. One caveat to your travels, or more like a pearl to share, is to ensure you are up to date on your vaccines and other recommended shots. I had a colleague in Moldova who was bitten by a dog and had to choose between immediately beginning the four-shot series of rabies shots or waiting a day or two and checking on the dog to see if it was still alive. I would have been more relieved to know I was already inoculated as opposed to wondering if the dog was in fact rabid or not. The point is, get a list of vaccines you might need before your move, and then this becomes a non-factor. Either way, be smart when you are out and about, whether in your new city or exploring other ones. Finally, as you go through the highs and lows of your first year teaching overseas, expect to be exhausted and to experience the same range of emotions you have at any other school you have worked for before. School will be a constant for you, a known factor in your day, and you can rest easy knowing that kids will be kids and the days and weeks will tick away. That’s a certainty. Everything else will fall into a routine, and you’ll find that by spring, you’ll be well-adjusted. By the time school ends, you’ll be ready for a break, to return Stateside to visit family and friends, but also ready to return to your new home when the break ends or you’ll be onto another. The adventure is whatever you choose to do with it and that’s all that matters. Hopefully, this four part series has served its purpose. If you want to see more of my first experience overseas check out Brindisi and Me.  When Writing Almost Broke Me Hard at working writing From West Virginia with Love while living in Florida Writing is a fickle gig if you ask me. There was a time when I was in my early twenties and I thought for sure the publishing process would be a simple one to navigate and whatever I wrote would strike “box office gold,” for lack of better words. Well, let’s be downright honest and just say that’s not how things played out. Over the last twenty-five years of writing screenplays, novels, and blogs, I have thankfully never quit my day job. Truly, there was only that six-month period after my discharge from the Navy when I did it full-time, to no avail. Suppose you were keen enough to pick up one of my latest books, Emotional Spending: How I Broke Free from Debt and Found Financial Freedom. In that case, you’ll hear indirectly about what I did during those six months following the screenplay fairy thinking a potential Bruce Willis read was going to open up all these doors for me and the giant piggy bank in the sky. We know that’s not how things played out, as I was teaching come August with a substantially smaller wallet, and have been in the classroom ever since. There have been times over the years when I have considered giving up writing. I imagine that other storytellers go through a similar process. Is this something I enjoy doing? Absolutely, but even when I craft a story, I want other people to read and enjoy what I have created. So when eyes don’t find those pages, the ego can be a bit bruised. That’s the truth, and anyone short of Emily Dickinson would agree with that sentiment. There was a point in 2016 when I was on the verge of walking away from writing. Having just moved to Florida, I didn’t know how many stories I had left in me. Honestly, I recall having finished My Shenandoah Love the previous summer and Going Home in a six-week process. That was a phenomenal writing period. We’re talking 110,000 words in less than four weeks and then an 80,000-word book in under two. I was feeling it and living that creative dream. After a horrendous school year in which my creative energy was zapped by too many bills, debt, and a lack of clarity, I couldn’t find a way forward. In the new apartment in Land O'Lakes, I spent my Saturdays at the library, taking out books and movies, and would check my email on my phone using the free Starbucks Wi-Fi in the mall parking lot. The only television I watched was what was on PBS ― specifically, Doc Martin, a phenomenal series if you have never seen the show before. I digress. Back to the story, school was about to start, and I mapped out a storyline for What Could’ve Been. This later became From West Virginia with Love. At the time, William Chase Prince was the lead character, and it would take a few years and some tweaking before he would become Chase Jones, a third or fourth cousin to Hannah from My Shenandoah Love. I don’t remember… The vital thing to note is that the first draft was completed in about three and a half weeks, primarily through evening writing sessions and intense weekends. I was pleased with myself, rightfully so, and well, a bit drained. There was more research than I expected, especially having part of the book take place in Crimea, where I was a foreign exchange student years earlier. Again, it’s essential to write about what you know, to make the process easier. That’s what I tell my students. A Dream, a Brother, and a PromiseSeveral months passed during which I didn’t write anything because it felt more like I had downloaded From West Virginia with Love and needed to read, recharge, and, well, find a way to improve my financial situation. It’s hard to get a book editor if you don’t have any money. As the fall months shifted to winter, I found myself brooding even though I accepted my new teaching position in Italy. And yes, I know you've noticed that I have a memoir about my time living there. I know, fantastic stuff, a segue to everything… I’m playing with you a little bit. With the position acquired and knowing where I would be for the next two years, I was able to recenter myself and write A Second Chance. This was a prequel to My Shenandoah Love because Esper is Hannah’s cousin, and the book takes place in the 1990s on Manning Lake. Interestingly, for those who know about Running with Vince and my homage to my twin brother, Stephen, Esper lives on the same lake where the boys, my brother, and I spent our summers growing up. It’s all connected. While there is that familiar tie, Esper’s story was an emotional drain for me. I reflected on abusive relationships and what many people go through, especially women, and wanted to bring light to that part of life. I wanted to give hope to those who don’t have it, and use Esper as a vessel to say we all get second chances. I was relieved to finish the story, but God, was I exhausted from it all and ready to say that was the last novel. That had to have been February when that happened. A few weeks passed, and it was March when I had a vivid dream. I was in England, of all places, in one of those traditional taxis going through an old, narrow Georgian and Victorian-style street with a canal on our left. Inside the taxi, along for the ride, no less, was my twin brother Stephen. Some of you may be aware that he passed in 2005. Whenever he appears in a dream, I immediately have to hit pause and cherish the interaction, the dialogue, and whatever message he wants to convey. This dream was no different. He laughed at me and then poked me in the stomach like the joker he was and said, “Jonny boy, don’t you dare give up writing. Whatever you do. You can take a break from it, but never put it away. That’s not you.” I’m sure there were some choice words shared between the two of us on the remaining part of that dream, but what was clear was how his message struck then and resonates now, years later. Even though I was fried, I couldn’t give up storytelling. How a Fox Saved My Storytelling  As synchronistic events play out in my life, more often when I pay attention, yes, that’s a hint to all of you to be more aware of life’s winks coming your way, but it was not even a week after that dream, when an idea hit me about a talking fox and a teenage girl. An initial scene came to me while I was teaching a Geometry class, and instead of focusing entirely on the lesson, I stopped at a good point and asked my students what would have more impact on them: a dog, a bear, or a fox stuck in a hunter’s trap. Of course, I had to play up the different types of traps and what one would be more realistic and dramatic. Then I added extra, would it make a difference if that dog, bear, or fox was in that trap because it was looking for you? With little effort, the first ideas for Luza, specifically The Fox and the Girl series, were born. This is where our story gets funny. I’ll be the first to tell you, I suck at marketing my books. I have been in my share of newspapers and online interviews, but after so many Running with Vince articles, the idea of being the grief-stricken twin who was sharing his brother’s message was exhausting. Compiling that with all these heavier, adult-oriented stories, where people face challenges in their lives and take constructive steps forward to live fuller ones, can be daunting. To that end, when I created The Fox and the Girl series, the idea was to target a young audience, specifically tweens, and tie in my love for The Chronicles of Narnia. Or better yet, this was going to be an homage, fan fiction, but my spin. With these different ideas in mind, after I wrote Luza and Riley, I immediately gravitated to a pen name ― Frankie Yandow. There wasn’t even a doubt. I just figured, let’s keep the adult material separate from the kid stuff. To this day, I kick myself for this strategic mistake. It was mind-boggling, and by the time Valo and Lane came out, the third and fourth books in the series, two years later, it was a bone-headed move, one that I didn’t know how to navigate. The books never took off the way I intended, but then that’s true for most independent authors. There were plenty of free downloads, but when your target reader group is dependent on their parents to buy the books, I found myself stuck in a meta hell, because you can’t easily classify your book as both juvenile and young adult. Fast forward a few years, around the time of COVID, I changed the series title to Luza after the first book, thinking that might gain traction, and removed Frankie Yandow, staking my name as the author, rightfully so. It was over the last year, not so much about being remiss, but rather the fact that I loved the initial series name, The Fox and the Girl. My series felt lost without its real identity. Come on, the name was catchy, and as for me, I loved the imagery of the little arctic fox and the young teen girl with the long curly black hair, meeting for the first time. With this in mind, and disregarding the algorithm that has shown no love to me, we return to the original series name, featuring new covers and a premise that will allow those who need to discover the series naturally to do so. More importantly, I’m keeping a promise to my twin to keep writing, no matter what happens.  The Hardest Part of International Teaching Isn’t the Classroom My hometown elementary school is just like every other school I have taught in - four walls, classrooms, teachers, and students. What’s the hardest part of international teaching? It’s not the classroom. The kids are kids, the curriculum is curriculum. The real challenge begins the moment you sign that contract — and suddenly your life becomes a blur of paperwork, packing, and patience as you prepare to start over in a new country. I recall my first international school assignment. This was a several-year process. Offered a position with a company at a February conference, I didn’t feel drawn to the location being offered. I said I wanted to wait and see if any other schools they managed had possible openings. We agreed to remain in touch, and I waited. Spring transitioned to summer, and to my dismay, nothing opened up that fit my criteria. As another year began, I maintained an open channel with the same company. By November, I was instructed to reach out in mid-December to get first dibs, if you will, on their list of openings. From there, the process went quite fast. By the end of December, I had identified five different schools that fit my criteria, and so I reached out specifically regarding their schools in Belarus and Kazakhstan. I have a background in the language and have always been interested in exploring that part of the world. Alas, a day or two passed, and I received a series of emails from one of the hiring team members. They didn’t want to offer me Belarus, but instead a position in Italy, of all places. I never saw that happening. Honestly, my heart was set on former Soviet Union countries, so when they suggested that southern Italy would be a great match, I found it funny simply because this was never on my radar. My mother was pleased, but for me, it took a week to wrap my head around going to a location I not only hadn’t considered, but didn’t feel a pull to. As many international school teachers will tell you, be open to any location, because you never know what that school will bring in terms of professional and personal growth. That seems a no-brainer, but it remains solid advice. Paperwork: Your First Big Test AbroadAfter formally accepting the position and signing my contract, the fun began. The paperwork trail started the moment I signed and continued for the next eight months in a series of steps that, even for me, is boggling. For many countries, you can’t just show up and apply for the right to work. I wish it worked that way, as it would have mitigated any drama, but as you are agreeing to teach and live in a country for multiple years, there is a different path that you are expected to follow. If this is not followed exactly as prescribed, it can result in deportation and a fine for the school. What I remember about the Italy process is a blur, and yet I know I had to get all of my transcripts, copies of my degrees, teaching license, background check, and a few other items to get the ball rolling. Once those were sent off to Italy, whether by airmail or email, waiting became the common theme. Patience (and Persistence) with Visas You have to be patient, but eventually you will get to the airport as Freddo, the Arctic Fox did on our way to Italy. A valuable lesson ensued, one on the importance of patience when faced with this application process. Countries frequently revise their legal codes, and procedures sometimes become more complicated or less so, depending on the government in power. As I shared in my book Brindisi and Me, I had to go to the police station upon arrival to complete my paperwork, and this was only after I picked up my right-to-work form and number. While most of these things are out of your control, if you don’t have the paperwork ready to go, you’re just delaying the process. One thing I would suggest to make your life easier is to make sure you have a current passport. Honestly, don’t even play the it’s got six months card. You need to double-check that it doesn’t expire during that first school year. Why subject yourself to a delay that you could have taken care of well beforehand? Some countries allow entry with less than six months remaining on your passport, while others will reject you immediately. You can’t count on border patrol being charmed by your Yankee accent to allow you in for this permanent stay. Knowing this, keep an active passport with a cushioned expiration date. Second, when conducting your background check, ensure that your school provides you with the timeframe for this document. In Italy, I was fine with a generic FBI background check, as long as it was conducted during the school year in which I applied for admission. The Italians were fine with a PDF copy. Meanwhile, in Morocco, I had to ensure that my check was completed within a few weeks of my pending arrival and that it was printed on the specific type of paper. If you don’t ask for specifics, this is an easy area to screw up the application process and cause headaches during the school year when your thoughts should otherwise be focused on your lovely students. The most significant piece of advice I can share is to be proactive. For Italy, I wasn’t allowed just to show up and use the Schengen agreement. Because I would be working, our process was to apply for a multi-visit visa. Unlike some countries, where this can be done via mail, the Italians want to see your face. They also want to waste your time, but that’s a story for another day (there’s an entire chapter on it in Brindisi and Me) Honestly, I had to visit the consulate in Miami to drop off the paperwork for them to process everything and return my passport with the new multi-visit visa page. I wish it were simple, as in just showing up and dropping off everything. But it doesn’t work that way, or at least it didn’t in 2017. You had to schedule an appointment, and the only way to do so was to use the wonky website. Rest easy knowing there were no appointments for me that fit my timeline. The first one I found was a week before I was due in Italy. This was three months out. Instead, I had to perform daily checks for several weeks until an appointment became available for the following day or later in the same week. This was stressful, and all of my colleagues had to deal with the same fiasco. There was one option to show up for 8:00 am and hope they could take me, but there was no guarantee, as I saw firsthand when I was onsite meeting with the officer. If you can’t keep your documents in order and be on the ball with these applications, then you might as well stay put in the United States. This is the easy part, because once you arrive, there is so much more to process and take in between the new position and getting adjusted to life in a foreign country. Packing Smart: What to Bring, What to Leave BehindBefore we can even focus on this new life, what else should you have ready for your big move? That’s easy, pack too much. Pretend you are going to college for the first time, and pack your entire room up to be transported. I’m not kidding, you could take my approach and pack less, but you might forget something you really like or need to have with you. On all of my moves, I have only brought three bags with me, full of clothes, medicines, vitamins, soap, and pictures. Each time I wanted to gather all my books, CDs, and miscellaneous items that make a place feel like home, but I also realized that there’s an added cost to shipping additional items. This is something you will have to consider. Take a moment or two, to decide what can be left behind and what must accompany you on the journey. My stuffed animals and pillow had to make the trip, while my two boxes of books remained behind under the guest bed at my mother’s. Then again, I woefully underpacked for meds on my first overseas assignment because I just assumed the country would have the same things we had in the States. Isn’t that a joke? Don’t get me started on my third posting, which is now in Morocco, and how that story continues to unfold in the same way. Thankfully, I learned at this stage what I need to stock up on to get through the year. Walmart, anyone? Learn the Language Before You LandThe more you can plan for and have those things ready, the easier your life will be when you leave for the airport. If I can provide any further advice, I recommend getting Rosetta Stone or Duolingo on your phone and studying the language of the culture you will be residing in. There’s something said about being familiar with the dialect, as it makes you feel more welcome, more understood, and you don’t have to rely on your phone to have a simple conversation. I studied for an hour a day from January to August to prepare for my trip to Italy. Now, did that help me learn the language? Let’s just say I reverted to Russian at the first hint of Italian from those around me. Maybe you’ll have better luck. Lastly, I recommend getting a multi-currency card, such as Wise, which allows for easy transfers of money from your American accounts to an intermediary card that facilitates currency conversions. This has been a lifesaver, especially when transferring money home, paying in local currency wherever I’m staying, or visiting. I don’t have to worry that my bank card at home will be compromised. In a similar vein, for those with credit cards, I would suggest having a card with no foreign transaction fees that you can have available should you need it during your teaching assignment. Final Thoughts: Be Proactive, Be Positive On the school bus, heading to work in Brindisi, Italy. I’m confident there are more tips to share, but for right now, these were the big ones in between getting your job and the steps that lead up to that fateful flight. Be proactive, be positive, and ask questions. If you do those things, you’ll be fine.
Before I end this blog, I would be remiss to share that Brindisi and Me spent quite a bit of time on my transition to life in Italy. If you're interested in learning about these experiences, feel free to take a look at the book. As for this series about International School teaching, we have one more to go, living in a foreign country. We’ll focus on that the next time around. |
Meet Mr. Jon- a traveler at heart who loves a good story and walk. Jonathan has over twenty years experience in independent publishing. While he prides himself on crafting a good story, nothing truly beats an adventure and a camera. 
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